Friday, May 16, 2025

Sandoval Lake

About 10 kilometres east of Puerto Maldonado, in Peru's Amazon basin, the Rio Madre del Dios has shifted over the years and left a lake that is now been turned into a national park that is a treasure trove of wildlife.

On our last full day in the Amazon jungle, we packed up all of our belongings and piled into the longboat that has been our primary mode of transportation up and down the Tambopata River. We crossed the river to a waiting bus and trekked over seriously bumpy dirt roads (I'm bruised and beaten) and highways for about 90 minutes, back to Puerto Maldonado.

At the resort office, we were told to pack only essentials in our day packs, to leave everything else behind. Our guide led us back down to the riverbank, where another boat was waiting for us.

The Tambopata River opens at Puerto Maldonado into the Rio Madre del Dios, and from there we went 10 kilometres downstream before jumping out and following our guide down another path.

After three kilometres, we came to a cantina at a small pond that was filled with flat-bottomed boats that our guide called canoes. Sure, I'll buy that.


The seven of us piled in (three couples plus our guide, who took the stern) and the guide took us down a short creek, which opened into the lake.

Our guide, Donald, said that the lake was five kilometres across its widest point but that seemed a bit of a stretch. By my reckoning, it semmed more plausible that the perimeter of the lake was five kms. Either way, it was beautiful and teeming with life. Myriad fish and cayman filled the water, while fountless species of bird perched in the bushes and trees.


Plus, we saw three species of monkeys: red howlers, cappucci, and squirrel monkeys.

But the highlight of Sandoval Lake is something we came across within minutes of exiting the creek: giant otters.

Baby giant otters.


They were taking shelter on a tiny island that  held palm trees. Our guide figured that they were taking shelter to nap, possibly after feasting on fish.

Our accommodation was a short way away, tucked into the jungle. It was little more than a shack with beds, a toilet, and sink. The walls between our room and our neighbours, the Swiss couple, was open after eight feet. We could hear everything from each other.

And we were thankful for our bug nets over the beds.

We rested for a couple of hours and then made our way back to the canoe for a sunset paddle, where we saw even more birds, cayman, and monkeys. We stayed out beyond sunset and made our way back in darkness, with the stars our only guide and with large fisher bats doing their best to keep the mosquitoes off us.

Donald knew the lake well and guided our boat straight to our dock, only turning on his flashlight when he needed to be precise at getting the boat aligned with the dock.

Crossing Sandoval Lake, the starry sky was both familiar and different. We saw new constellations, though I did find the Big Dipper. It was upside-down, a reminder that we weren't in the northern hemisphere.


The next morning, we left the shacks a half-hour earlier than planned so that we could have a leisurely paddle and see more wildlife. The paddle did not disappoint.


Back in Puerto Maldonado, we said goodbye to the two couples who had been with us over the five days, plus Donald, who was an expert guide. DW and I stayed one more day in this southeast Peruvian town, as we had clothes to wash and didn't want to go straight to the airport.

We were also pretty ripe and wouldn't have wanted to offend the other passengers.

Early on Friday, we flew back to Lima. Just one more day in the big city before we head home. We won't reach home until Sunday morning and at the time of writing this post (Thursday afternoon), I can't wait.

Peru has been amazing and it's been a worthwhile trip. We've met some wonderful people, had some great food, and have seen the diversity of this country.

DW says that we have to come back, and perhaps we will, but it was hard on my body. My lungs have taken a beating and I had one bad day with my stomach (I know, that can happen anywhere). But I'm also starting to feel my age and I'll be returning home with bruises and muscle aches.

But I certainly won't say that I'll never come back.

Thursday, May 15, 2025

Under the Pale Moon Light

I don't know how we completed the journey.

Our guide told us that the rivers in the Amazon basin are always changing and can move, year by year, as much as 10 kilometres. Rio Tambopata, along which our resort is situated, is fast-flowing, carrying along with it fallen trees and other debris.

So how was it that we were able to traverse it, upstream, with no light other than the moon, and survive?

Our group gathered at 4:30 and made our way to the waters edge, where a long boat with a pilot and two guides (one, in training) were waiting. We put on life vests and set out.

It took more than an hour, weaving along the snaking river, until we reached a checkpoint, where our jungle guide, Donald, had to register all of us for this protected part of the Tambopata. They want to make sure that whoever goes in is accounted for, so that they know everyone gets out.

In the past, people would go in and never come out.

It took about another half hour to reach our final destination, a section of the river that was covered in large, smooth stones. In the distance clay walls rose about 20 metres to lush jungle. We carried whatever gear we brought plus a stool that was supplied by the resort. 

The sun was just rising, lighting up the clay licks and turning them a deep orange. Just in time for the residents of this area to wake up.

Macaws. Parrots. Parakeets. Hawks. Terns. More.


There was an explosion of sounds as the birds took flight, dancing in the air before settling on branches or on the clay walls, from which they seek out the salt deposits.

We watched them for hours, though it seemed like minutes. Every time you looked, something new happened. The parrots would gather in one spot. Then the blue and yellow macaws.

A falcon sat, motionless, on a tree branch, biding its time, before swooping down and catching a parakeet in flight, making it his breakfast.

By 8:00, it was time for our own breakfast. The guides set up a table with hardboiled eggs, fruit, breads, coffee, and more in a shaded spot. We carried our stools and gear, and leisurely feasted.

We slowly made our way back, downstream, stopping to see a sloth, several capybara, cayman, and more birds.

Seeing the river in full daylight, I was in awe at how we were able to make the predawn journey without slamming into floating logs or rock outcrops. Because that river is ever-changing and we only had the light of the moon.

Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Welcome to the Jungle

Because DW and I are deep in Peru's Amazon basin, Internet is spotty, at best, and I wasn't even sure if I'd be able to post anything for the rest of this week.

I had written yesterday's post while we were still in Cusco and I was suffering the effects of a high altitude on my already weakend lungs. We've been at altitudes for which I'm more accustomed and so I've been feeling fine since last Thursday.

Except for that day I lost, in Lima, due to traveller's diarrhea. I'll spare you the details. 

We said goodbye to our kids as a taxi spirited them to Lima airport, and to their respective homes. As their dad, I was in constant touch and tracked their flights back to Canada.

Meanwhile, DW and I took our own plane to the southeast section of Peru, not far from the Bolivian border, in a town called Puerto Maldonado. For a tiny town that borders two rivers of the Amazon system, it's lively and people were partying until 4 in the morning.

Not great when your room has no glass windows.

The next morning, we were picked up by folks who run a resort a few hours down the Rio Tambopata, were we have a bungalow that backs onto dense jungle that is teeming with life. Two other couples (one, from Switzerland and the other, South African who now make their home in North Carolina) are with us and a guide, who is nothing short of amazing, is taking us all over this region for five days.

Days are action-packed and worth the heat, humidity, and hungry insects.

I'll have more to say, in the coming days, assuming I have Internet. Tomorrow, I'll share some images that I've captured in the jungle.

Stay tuned.

Monday, May 12, 2025

My High Was My Low


A sexy woman can virtually take my breath away. Saqsaywaman literally did just that.

Yes, I've been loving Peru. The people, the history, the culture, the natural beauty, and the food. The experience has been amazing.

But last week, my lungs just weren't up to the elevation. I found myself in distress, unable to catch my breath. Walking up the hills surrounding Cusco, at elevations exceeding 3,500 metres above sea level, I wasn't acclimatizing and was getting worse.

Kid 2 was also having a rough time. She felt the nausea of altitude sickness, plus she's also had lung issues, including asthma and bronchitis. On top of heat exhaustion, she chose to rest at our hostel while DW, Kid 1, and I made the 15-minute walk to the entrance to Saqsaywaman, the remains of an Inca fortress and sacred place.

Construction began around 1440 and took almost 100 years to complete, just in time for the invading Spanish conquistadors.

Bastards.

What remains shows the genius of Incan engineering and craftmanship, with massive stones set perfectly in place without the use of mortar or advanced tools. Some of the massive boulders were brought to this spot from more than 30 kilometres away, and uphill.

Sure, the Egyptian pyramids are impressive but, goddammit, the Inca people kicked ass.

We loved our first week in Peru: Ollantaytambo, the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and Cusco. But the only failing was us.

Having lost 20 percent of my lung capacity from COVID, in 2022, I really felt the thin air. I compared my experience of walking up to Saqsaywaman to the first time I ever cycled up to the Champlain Lookout, in Gatineau Park, back when I had a heavy hybrid bike and I rode up the steepest route.

At the top, I was breathing heavily, gulping air, requiring about a half hour to recover before getting back on my bike. I wasn't in the best of shape, that time, and I was ill-prepared for that ride.

I'm about 15 years older, now, and I didn't exercise before coming to Peru. I told myself that I'd take my time while climbing stairs but it's not really the exertion of energy that got me. It was the lack of needed oxygen.

When we reached Saqsaywaman, I  could barely breathe. Luckily, I had one of my inhalers on me, but it only helped a little.

Throughout the walk around the site, I was dizzy and felt unbalanced, as though it wouldn't take much to topple over. It was difficult to speak. At one point, I told DW and Kid 1 that I was feeling in distress.

I drank lots of water. I stopped often. We decided to not climb the final mound.

I was so disappointed. I was otherwise having a great time. The good thing was that when we were done and made our way downhill, toward our hostel, Kid 2 had rallied and was up to join us for lunch.

But I was done. I struggled through lunch, though I knew I needed the calories. As soon as lunch was over, I returned to the hostel, where my stronger inhaler was waiting. I took a triple dose and lay down.

I told myself that I just had to get through that day. The next day, we were flying to Lima, which is along the Pacific coastline.

We all felt better.

The kids, who only spent the first week with us, have returned home. DW and I are now on the second leg of our adventure, where we're now heading into the Amazon basin.

Lower altitude but humidity and bugs. I wonder what the bigger challenge will be?

Stay tuned.

Friday, May 9, 2025

Friday Fiction: The First Chapter

Image: ChatGPT
I said I wouldn't share any of Dark Water on my blog. I lied.

Last week, before heading on vacation, I re-read what I had already written of my murder mystery, with the hope of feeling inspired enough to break through my writer's block, or at the very least, see if the story was any good.

I've already provided a synopsis of the story—something that I could see on the inside jacket that hooks a reader. But I didn't want to start posting the actual content of the novel, as it's a who-dunnit and I don't want to spoil it for anyone who will hopefully want to buy the book when I eventually get it published.

However, the first chapter only sets up the mystery. And most of it is isolated from the rest of the story.

When I first started thinking about trying my hand at crime fiction, I started with a body being discovered in the Rideau River. I wanted the story to be set in Ottawa, to make this a true Canadian murder mystery.

I decided that kayakers would discover the body and I based those characters closely on DW and myself. For anybody who knows us or has followed this blog, you'll be able to easily see us.

Write what you know, as they say.

So here's my rough draft of Chapter 1 of Dark Water. Enjoy. And this will absolutely be the only part of the story that I'll be sharing.


Friday

The first perfect day in nearly two weeks. The water surface of the Rideau River was calm, though the river’s current, below, was not. The heavy rains that welcomed April had added to the already heavy melt of March snow and the runoff raised water levels and increased the flow of this waterway. Though the canal system, which extended from the Ottawa River and made its way down to Kingston and the eastern end of Lake Ontario, was not yet ready for larger boats, it was certainly set for kayaks.

And Lynne and Greg Simpson were itching to get their new kayaks into the water.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, kayaks had been their lifeline. After a month of being limited to their home, with minimal contact to the outside world, Lynne and Greg were going stir crazy. They went for walks around the neighbourhood, to get fresh air and exercise, and they would have one or two friends join them, keeping the socially accepted two-metre distance, but they needed more activity.

Lynne had recently come into some inheritance money, after her father had passed away, and she made the decision to purchase kayaks. She and Greg had considered acquiring some, years earlier, had even test-paddled several makes and models on a pond to the south of the Carp airport, which was just west of Ottawa. The test paddling had been provided by an outdoors store, which had several steel freight containers that had been converted into canoe and kayak storage lockers. But the Simpsons never committed, having preferred travelling to extravagant expenses on water craft that they weren’t sure that they’d get full use of.

And so, kayaks were allocated to the back burner.

One morning, in April of 2020, however, Lynne had made an executive decision while she and her husband were still in bed. “We’re getting kayaks,” she declared, as Greg slowly awoke. Lynne was always the first to open her eyes and she patiently waited for her husband while browsing on her iPad.

“Oh, aye?” said Greg, his Scottish tongue sang. “Just like that?”

“I’ve been looking online. We both liked the touring kayaks that we tested before.”

“Sure, but that was years ago.”

“Yeah, and what’s changed? Look here,” she urged, holding up her tablet with a page from Frontenac Outfitters, an outdoor-adventure store that was located north of Kingston. “These are Delta kayaks, made in British Columbia. Highly rated.”

Greg perused the stats, looked at the images on the screen.

“Fifteen-hundred dollars apiece!” Greg let out a low whistle.

“Worth it,” said Lynne. “I need to get out. Walking isn’t enough.”

“It’s almost cycling season.”

“Cycling isn’t enough. And besides, you’re a lone wolf. You like going on long rides on your own. We would kayak together.”

It was true. Greg would often get on his road bike with only a vague idea of where he wanted to go. Maybe, just to Manotick and back. The small village, less than 10 kilometres south from their Barrhaven home, was a popular route for trips that were shorter than an hour. There were bakeries and coffee shops, where he’d stop for a treat before returning home.

But more often than not, Greg would reach Manotick and keep going. Sometimes, he would head east, to Greely, and then turn south, to Osgoode, before heading west, to North Gower, and then north again, toward home. If he was feeling particularly energetic, he’d head all the way to Kemptville, or even Merrickville, before turning back.

One thing was for certain: Greg liked to cycle solo. He wanted to keep his own pace, wanted to slip on his Bluetooth headphones and play his music–not too loud to drown out vehicles that approached him from behind, but loud enough to make any conversation impossible.

It was Lynne who called him the ‘lone wolf,’ but she was right. For his rides, Greg wanted no company.

“Look,” Lynne said, pointing out two of the Delta kayaks. One was 12 feet in length; the other, another 10 inches longer. “They only have one 12-foot kayak left in stock. I would want that one.”

“It’s yellow,” said Greg. “You’re fine with the colour?”

“It’s a nice yellow. They call it ‘Saffron.’”

Greg eyed the longer craft. “They have two of these left in stock.”

“And look, one of them is also saffron. We could have matching kayaks.”

“I prefer the red one,” said Greg. “You know that’s my favourite colour.”

“It says here that they’ll deliver them for twenty dollars.”

“Doesn’t seem like that would even cover the cost of gas.”

The kayaks arrived a week later. While they waited, the Simpsons watched paddling techniques on YouTube. They went through a checklist of equipment they’d need: a rooftop carrier for the car; paddles; throw lines; a bilge pump for expelling excess water that could get into the cockpit; and covers for the cockpits.

Masked up and adhering to social-distancing rules, the couple went into a local sporting-goods store, made sure that they had everything they needed for when the kayaks arrived and the weather allowed for them to get on the water.

Lynne was right. Being on the water was liberating. Paddling on local lakes and rivers was their zen. They packed cameras and binoculars, became novice birders, spying all sorts of avian wildlife, listening to the myriad songs along the waterways.

A phone app listened and identified the birds.

For years, Lynne and Greg looked forward to kayaking season. They’d pack the storage compartments with camping gear and paddle to the interior of provincial parks. It renewed and strengthened their love of the outdoors, allowed them to forget about the hectic, fast-paced life of weekdays.

They challenged themselves, paddling on the busy and sometimes swift current of the St. Lawrence Seaway, exploring the Thousand Islands. They paddled large lakes, sometimes battling strong winds that produced white caps on the water. And while their Delta kayaks handled these challenges fairly well, the Simpsons eventually determined that they needed more than their crafts could deliver.

“We need 14-foot boats,” Lynne declared at the end of the previous season. “We also need either a skeg or a rudder.” As with their earlier purchase, Lynne was prepared, showing Frontenac Outfitters’ Web site once again. “They’re taking pre-orders for next year’s models, offering the same price as this year.”

“I’d like to actually try one before I commit,” said Greg, but already, he knew that they needed longer kayaks. They had dreams of paddling the fjord of the Saguenay River, northeast of Québec City. The prospect of moving along the waterway, sharing space with beluga whales, was a huge draw, and their kayaks could benefit from the control of a rudder. Greg didn’t like the idea of a skeg–a fin that could pop out from a slit along the keel. They had friends with kayaks that used skegs, and a couple of times, a pebble or mud from the shore would get in the recess, and would prevent the skeg from dropping all the way, or worse: not coming down at all. With a rudder, pedals inside the cockpit would allow the kayak to compensate, should wind try to push the stern sideways. “And I suppose it would be fine to pre-order. That way, there’s no risk of them running out.”

In 2020, when their kayaks were delivered, the Simpsons learned that they had taken the last kayaks, that other shoppers had the same idea of getting on the water to beat the confinement of the pandemic, and that the demand outweighed the supply. “Delta says they have no idea when they’ll have more stock. They’re in shutdown mode, too,” said the Frontenac rep who delivered the Simpson’s kayaks.

A decision was made to take the long drive on the Thanksgiving long weekend. The shop was located on the edge of Frontenac Provincial Park and backed onto Pearkes Lake. Lynne tried both the skeg and rudder models, whereas Greg was only keen on the rudder version.

The sales representative was helpful, setting a kayak on grass and letting Greg and Lynne try sitting in it, getting the overall feel. She then sent the couple down a path toward Pearkes Lake, telling them that she’ll follow, with two models in a pickup truck. The Simpsons had brought their own life vests and paddles so that they would be set up with familiar equipment. Once set in the water–Greg in a ruddered Delta and Lynne in the boat with the skeg–the salesperson let them putter at leisure, letting the two know that she’d be back at the shop for when they were finished testing.

“Just leave the kayaks on the grass near the dock,” she said as she turned away.

Back at the shop, Greg said, “We’ll take two, with rudders.” Lynne was comfortable in both models but didn’t care for the cord mechanism of the boat with the skeg. Also, the recess in the aft storage compartment might mean that she’d have to strategically place any camping gear that she’d want to carry there.

*

Nearly six months later, the Simpsons made the return trip to Frontenac Outfitters to collect their new kayaks. The shop would not be delivering them, this time. The pandemic was all but over and the cheap delivery fee was a one-time incentive.

It was a new season, new crafts, new colours. Lynne had decided on a bright green that Delta called ‘Lime’: Greg, Azure Blue. And now, with ice-out conditions, the two were eager to take their boats on a maiden trip.

They wanted to stay close to home. This would just be a test run to reacquaint themselves with paddling techniques and to become comfortable in the new configuration. They took the short drive to the Chapman Mills Conservation area, some 10 minutes away from their Barrhaven home.

Driving along Fallowfield Road, their eyes couldn’t help but turn to the farmer’s field. It hadn’t even been a week since that airplane had crashed, and investigators were still on site. The tragedy was all that occupied local news outlets, and while the reporters and cameras were no longer preoccupied by the crash site, there were still some curious spectators who would pull onto the shoulder of the surrounding roads to observe and say a little prayer for the victims.

“Those poor, poor people,” said Lynne, in a near-whisper and almost to herself, as Greg drove past.

“At least the rain has stopped and given the field a chance to absorb some of the water,” said Greg. “It’ll help the investigators examine all the pieces. They’ll be moving them to a Transport Canada facility soon, I imagine.”

“At least they’ve recovered the flight data and cockpit recordings,” added Lynne. “Something must have gone wrong with the plane.”

“Aye, true.”

Though it was too early for the Chapman Mills Conservation Area to have its dock deployed out into the Rideau River, there was a gentle slope nearby where the Simpsons could step into the water. Neither Lynne nor Greg relished doing so, as it was still only late April and the water was ice-cold. With a late melt of snow and the heavy rains of the previous weeks, the river was higher than usual and the current was more noticeable. Not enough for the Simpsons to be concerned; in fact, it gave them a good opportunity to test the rudders on the vessels. And though the current could be detected, it wasn’t particularly swift. Just enough to slow the kayaks, should Greg and Lynne be moving upstream and stop paddling.

The plan for this short outing was to head upstream, past the Vimy Memorial Bridge, which linked Barrhaven to Riverside South, and reach the Long Island lockstation, on the northern end of Manotick, before heading back. It was only a few kilometres, each way, but it would give them a satisfying taste of the new boats. They also expected the Rideau to get a bit turbulent as they reached the smaller Jock River, near the basin of the locks. Every year, the runoff at the intersection was strong, and this spring was going to be even more swift, with the added rains.

The air was crisp at this time of morning but the sun was doing its best to change that. Wisps of fog rose from the water but quickly dissipated as the sunlight touched it. Because the trees were bare, the footpath for the conservation area was clearly visible. The National Capital Commission, which saw to the care of the trail, had finished their renovations the previous fall, finally completing a wooden bridge that linked the trail to an outcrop of ground that extended into the river like a tongue. Across the Rideau, the children’s play area of Claudette Cain Park stood on higher ground. And more than a half-kilometre away, the three white metal arches of the Vimy Memorial Bridge seemed even brighter with the sun lighting them up.

Already, the rudders came into use. Though Lynne and Greg figured that they wouldn’t need them 99 percent of the time, the current in the middle of the river was just strong enough to try to turn the stern the wrong way.

“I’m loving the rudder already,” said Lynne, as she pulled the lever and flipped the rudder into the water, using the pedals to make a slight correction.

“I’m glad we had the forethought to unhook the rudders before we set out,” added Greg.

“I’m still mentally adjusting to looking ahead and seeing green, instead of yellow.”

“Don’t you mean saffron?”

“How do you like the blue of yours?” laughed Lynne.

“It seems brighter than the red. I’m glad I’m wearing sunglasses.” Indeed, facing toward the rising sun was making him squint, even with shades over his eyes.

A suction cup was attached to the cover of the kayak’s day pod, a small, circular hatch for a compartment where Greg usually stored snacks for a day’s paddle and other things that he felt he would need to access quickly. The suction cup housed an attachment for a GoPro mount, but Greg had a 360-degree video camera attached, instead. Over the years, Greg had wanted to capture aspects of their paddles, to make videos that they could watch and enjoy later. He had considered creating his own kayaking YouTube channel but had never found the confidence to share the videos with the general public. When the Simpsons kayaked with their paddling friends, who he dubbed Paddlefolk, they would gather after Greg had compiled his video footage and relive the experience.

As soon as he was comfortable in the kayak and ready to paddle in earnest, Greg pressed the record button on the camera. “Hey, folks, it’s the Simpsons… .” He paused, mentally thinking of the opening theme to the similarly named, long-running cartoon. Every video that Greg had created included a clip of the opening notes of The Simpsons, with the title emerging from clouds, and as soon as the title was sung, the clip would end and the video would resume with Greg. “No, not those Simpsons, it’s Lynne and Greg. It’s a new season of paddling and we’re on our maiden voyage in our new Delta kayaks. We’re just taking a short outing, on the Rideau River, starting at Chapman Mills Conservation Area and ending at the base of the Long Island Locks. We’ll be paddling under the Vimy Memorial Bridge and checking out the tail end of the Jock River, which should be racing into the Rideau. We can’t wait!”

He pressed the button on the camera again, ending the recording. He would resume recording as they approached the bridge or if anything else caught his attention along the way. The greatest advantage of a 360-degree camera was that Greg didn’t have to point it towards his subject. With two extra-wide lenses mounted on opposite sides of the housing, the camera caught literally everything. The camera captured two files and the processing software would seamlessly stitch the footage together during editing. Greg could focus the view wherever he wanted, later. This, he felt, gave him the freedom to push one button and forget about the camera, let him just concentrate on paddling, and enjoy the scenery around him.

The mist on the water was lighter in the shade of the approaching bridge, and Greg pressed the button to resume recording. He didn’t provide any narrative but simply let the camera take everything in. After a few more seconds, he stopped recording. He had learned over the years that several short clips were more pleasing to the eye than one long clip that didn’t forward the story.

“Look over there,” Lynne called out, pointing toward the eastern side of the river, about 50 metres downstream, between the Simpsons and the bridge. “Is that a beaver?”

Greg followed Lynne’s line from her finger and saw a small shadow raised above the water line. The sunlight made a silhouette that provided little detail from the distance that the kayakers were from the object.

“It’s possible,” said Greg, “but it’s not moving very fast. Whatever it is, it’s floating, not swimming.” He pressed the record button again and started paddling toward whatever was moving downstream.

Greg was sceptical of anything that he couldn’t clearly identify from his kayak. In their first season, while paddling along the Tay River, near the Eastern Ontario town of Perth, Greg thought he saw a beaver near some lily pads and bullrushes, but as he approached it, he discovered that it was simply the stumpy end of a log that was sticking above the surface. And though this object on the Rideau was moving, he still had his doubts.

He turned his attention to the lens of his camera that was facing him. “Lynne has spotted something up ahead, just visible above the river’s surface. Is it some creature? Let’s find out.” In his mind the video footage would then point past the bow, which was on a direct course toward the shadowy object.

As he drew closer, he saw dark fur. It was definitely the head of a creature, but seemed slightly large for a beaver. There was also something trailing behind. Was it a dead animal? Each stroke of his paddle brought Greg closer and more detail was showing itself. It was a creature, he was sure of it. But with no motion beyond what the river was providing, he was sure that it was dead.

Trailing behind the head–he was sure it was a head–Greg saw non-organic material. Some sort of fabric, he was sure of it. It was dark but he expected that almost any water-soaked material would be darkened. Was it a jacket? Greg was now within 10 metres of the creature when he realized that the fur was hair. Long hair. Just below the water’s surface, Greg could make out arms, outstretched, legs trailing behind.

“Lynney,” Greg called behind him, his voice quivering, the power and confidence it had almost always carried, faltering, “stay back. Grab your phone. Call 9-1-1.” He let the camera continue to record, though he knew this would not be a video that he would be watching later, in the comfort of his home.

Thursday, May 8, 2025

Beyond Expectations

I've wanted to visit Machu Picchu for as long as I can remember.

Before I started seeing the world in earnest, in my early 20s, when I took my first overseas trip and promised myself that I'd make travel something I would do at every opportunity, there were places that I added to my bucket list. Machu Picchu was one of them but back then, it seemed too remote.

Still, I kept it in mind.

I wanted to see the Great Wall of China when I first learned about it in elementary school, and again I thought it was too remote. Yet, in 1997, I found myself standing on it and discovered that nothing is too remote if you put your mind to making it happen.

When DW and I had young kids, we wanted to travel with them, let them see the world beyond their neighborhood, so we took them across Canada, to the U.S., to Italy, France, Cuba, and more, but we tended to shy away from so-called remote places. Travelling with tots comes with its own challenges.

When they got older, they didn't seem keen on travelling with DW and me as much. In 2019, they travelled with friends: Kid 1, to the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, and France; Kid 2, to Greece. Kid 1 wanted to go with me to South Korea, when I went solo, also in 2019, but I promised her I'd take her another time.

I don't know if I'll fulfill that promise but I'll try my best.

But the kids haven't been interested in joining us in Mexico, when we've offered. They didn't want to go with us to Portugal or Costa Rica. When we said we were going to Peru, however, they both expressed an interest. It seems they've also seen images of Machu Picchu and thought it would be nice to see, but that it seemed pretty remote.

Going on Mom and Dad's tab, however, made it desirable.

We took a train from Ollantaytambo at 5am to get to the Inca mountain city for 8:00. It was raining a bit but looked like clouds were constantly shifting. While photos often show the archeological site bathed in sunshine and clear skies, I was hoping for a bit of drama. I didn't need sunshine but I didn't want the area to be completely shrouded in cloud cover.

I think we got the best weather.


Someone had said that video and photos don't do Machu Picchu justice. You have to see it with your own eyes. From what I saw and what I captured, I absolutely agree. I haven't looked at the images that I took with my D-SLR yet but my Android photos are all I have to share for now.

Stay tuned for more.


One of my bucket-list destinations has been checked off. It did not disappoint. I have another remote place to go to in the next year. But now, nothing seems too remote.

Happy Thursday.

Tuesday, May 6, 2025

Up in the Andes

Approaching Cusco.

We were still travelling tired, with less than four hours of sleep.

It was about 2:30 or so by the time we got to bed. I had set an alarm for 6: DW and the girls shared one room; I had one to myself but in fairness, we didn't want to take the risk that I might snore and keep others awake.

My alarm went off but I slept through it, waking up on my own at 6:39. We were supposed to leave for the airport at 7, but because we were so close and our flight wasn't departing until 10, we decided that 8 was fine. And it was.

We flew the one-hour flight from Lima to Cusco, the Inca capital city. We're planning to spend a couple of days here but because it's at an elevation of about 3,500 metres above sea level, we decided to acclimatize slowly, and so hired a driver, who is employed by our hotel, to take us to Ollantaytambo, another historic Inca town about two hours from Cusco and at only 2,700 or so metres high.

Our boutique hotel, Parwa Guest House, is run by fabulous owners who are very helpful. Our room is spacious for the four of us and our windows look out onto an archeological site that we haven't visited at the time of writing this post but will have visited, and I'll share images of this site for Wordless Wednesday, tomorrow.

I have to say that Ollantaytambo is beautiful, surrounded by steep mountains of the Andes and surrounded by history. So far, none of us seems affected by altitude sickness, but we're taking preventative medicine and sucking on cacao candies, which relieve effects as well.

We'll already have been to Machu Picchu by the time this post has been published, so I'll have more to share in the future.

Stay tuned.

Monday, May 5, 2025

Taken in Less Than an Hour

In our defense, we were exhaused. Especially, I was.

If you read Friday's blog post, you know that DW, the kids, and I are currently in Peru. We were up at 2:30 Friday morning and arrived at the Ottawa airport for 4:30.

But before our flight, on Thursday, I drove to Toronto to pick up Kid 2, who had to work until 2:15. I literally pulled in front of her coffee shop, she threw her bags in the trunk, and I turned back toward home. We arrived around 8, cleaned the house, made sure everyone had what we needed, and were in bed by midnight.

We flew to Montreal at 6 and then to Miami, Florida, where we had a four-hour layover. I wasn't looking forward to this part of the trip because a) I didn't want to be in the U.S., b) I didn't want to be in Florida, of all places, c) I didn't want to be in a position where I'd have to spend any money in the U.S., and d) I really didn't want to break my promise to myself, when in Arizona, in 2016, I decided that I was done with the States and wouldn't return.

Our delayed flight.

Our flight to Lima was delayed by about five hours, so not only did we linger in a place I didn't want to be, we had to spend money because we were starving.

Our final destination wasn't Lima. We'll spend a couple of days there but at the end of our first week, when the kids return home, and DW and I head to the Amazon basin for our second week. Arriving in Lima at 1am, nearly 24 hours after we woke up at home, we needed to find our way to the hostel near the airport. The hostel closes at midnight but because we notified the owner that our flight was delayed, he said he'd wait up for us.

He told us to take an Uber the four kilometres to the hostel. We should have listened, but by the time we got through immigration at the airport and exited the terminal, we were trying to get our bearings. Several taxi drivers approached us but we said, "No, gracias."

One driver kept talking to us while we were searching Uber, saying that there was a special area for Uber drivers that would be a long walk, and it wasn't safe at this hour. We kept looking.

When we found a ride, it was about 21 Peruvian soles, about $8 Canadian. This persistent cabby said he'd take us "for 20."

"Twenty soles?" I asked.

"Twenty PEN," was his response. PEN is the abbreviation for Peruvian soles, much like CAD is the abbreviation for the Canadian dollar. We accepted.

Our hostel, Kurmi, is located less than 10 minutes from the airport but is apparently in a dodgy neighbourhood. The cabbie asked us several times if we were sure where we were going. "I wouldn't walk these streets at night," he said. And even when we pulled up in front of the hostel, he told us to remain in the car because he noticed some suspicious motorcycles riding around.

It was at this time that I pulled a 20-soles note from my pocket.

"No no," he said, "I can't do the ride for 20 soles, I need PEN."

"PEN is soles," I said.

"No, it's a different rate," he insisted, opening his phone and showing a spreadsheet that had a set of fractions and conversion rates. Kid 1, who was feeling anxious, pulled up the Uber quote, which also appeared as PEN.

We were tired. We weren't thinking. DW and the kids started getting out of the taxi and retrieving their bags as soon as the motorcycles moved on. The owner of the hostel threw open a steel door and told the ladies to get in and the kids didn't need to be told twice. They felt scared.

The cabby pointed at his chart and showed that 20 PEN was about $25 USD.

"You're ripping us off," I said, but for the sake of arguing on the street in a dangerous neighbourhood, I gave him two $10 US notes. "Take it or leave it."

The hostel owner beckoned for me to come inside. The cabbie took the proffered notes. "Asshole," I said as I turned my back and walked into the hostel. The owner closed the door and placed a bolt across it.

"Tell me," I said, after thanking him for staying up so late. It was now after 2 am. "PEN and soles are the same, yes?"

"Yes."

So, we ended up paying our driver more than 70 soles for a ride that Uber would have cost 20.

At least the rooms were clean and the beds were comfortable. Though, we had to be up in less than four hours to catch our next flight. As I said, Lima was just a stopover.

The neighbourhood was still dodgy in the morning but at least there were more people on the streets, and the hostel owner insisted it was safer in the day.

Our vacation continues in the Andes. Stay tuned.

Friday, May 2, 2025

Another Hemisphere

Image: ChatGPT
Today's the day.

It seems that we booked this trip years ago but it's only been a little more than eight months. We've wanted to go for ages but it finally took watching a motorcycling series with Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman to convince us that it was time.

No, we're not riding motorcycles across several countries. But we are going to one of the places where they stopped along their travels.

For decades, I've wanted to visit the historic Inca site of Machu Picchu, in Peru. I wanted to get there in the early hours, watch mountain mist float around the centuries-old buildings, and capture it with my camera. But I didn't know much else about the country, other than the capital is Lima, and I didn't know what else to see, other than these famed ruins.

As much as I wanted to see them, I wasn't going to travel all that distance just for one site.

But when we say McGregor and Boorman traverse the landscape of Peru, I realized that there was more to see. DW was interested in going, so we started making plans. But then both our kids started showing an interest, so we decided we'd make it a family vacation.

After all, we haven't taken a vacation with the four of us since we went out to Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, in 2018. We were due to go somewhere together.

Today is all about getting to Lima. Tomorrow, we fly to Cusco, the highest elevation that any of us have ever been, at nearly 3,400 metres above sea level. We've brought meds to deal with the side effects.

We'll be exploring the old Inca capital and various towns around it, plus the Sacred Valley. Our kids are staying with us for this first week before heading back. In the second week, DW and I will explore another part of the country on our own.

I don't know if I'll be blogging regularly on this trip. It depends on the Internet access and how much down time I'll have. And it'll also depend on whether altitude sickness becomes a hinderance.

If I don't post anything for the next two weeks, be sure that I'll have lots to share when we return.

It's our first time crossing over to the southern hemisphere. A whole new adventure.

Stay tuned.

Thursday, May 1, 2025

Stalled

Image: ChatGPT

When I reached 101 pages in my novel, Dark Water, I was feeling really good. I've never written at this pace before and feel good that I have the bones of this story assembled from head to foot, which I've laid out in notes and spreadsheets.

I just need to finish putting all of those bones in place, and then I can start adding organs and tissue into a solid body of work. (How was that for imagery?)

But ever since I've hit 101 pages, I've kind of stalled on writing. Ever since I first started writing this book, I've had a pattern: write from Monday to Thursday; edit those pages on Friday. If, after editing that work, I feel like writing some more, I continue.

This schedule worked well, right up until those 101 pages. Reaching 100 felt like a real milestone and I was proud of my pacing. I also know where the story continues and what needs to be written.

Only, this week, I've stalled.

Admittedly, this week's been a bit hectic. We had our Canadian election on Monday, and I was distracted by nerves. It was the closest election in a long time and I was watching the results come in all the way until 2:30 Tuesday morning.

Needless to say, I was pretty tired on Tuesday. But relieved by the election results. I had errands and appointments to fill the first part of my day—getting currency for our vacation and a much-needed massage (I've gotta use my work benefits while I have them!). I ran out of steam in the afternoon and my brain was pretty much mush, so I didn't write at all.

Not even a blog post.

Oh, yeah, my weekly routine also has me writing as many blog posts on the weekends or on Tuesday mornings, so I don't have to worry about them for the rest of the week. (I wrote this post yesterday; I wrote Friday's post a couple of weeks ago.)

Looking at page 102, which is the start of Chapter 8, I've had one word, which I typed after finishing page 101 and Chapter 7: "Calloway."

Michael 'Mickey' Calloway is the lead inspector in Dark Water and he'll be leading this chapter. For a good chunk of Monday, I stared at that single word and tried to will myself to continue. I know where the story is supposed to go from here but I haven't figured out to start it. It's the beginning of a new day and Mickey is at his desk in the Serious Crimes unit of the police station.

That's in my head but I just haven't been able to write it down and have reached my first block about how to start the chapter. I have information that the character does not, and I'm trying to figure out how to get it to him.

It's not meat for the bones. It's a joint.

Maybe I need to take a break. Maybe, I need some fresh thinking.

I'm already taking a break from writing today. Kid 2, who's coming along on our family vacation, lives in Toronto and has to work today. It's tight for her to get a train to Ottawa, and I'm worried that she'll forget something, like her passport, so I've decided to drive down to pick her up. We can go through a checklist before heading home and that way, I'll be less stressed.

Just tired.

So I spent yesterday reading Dark Water from the beginning, to check the pace and make sure that I'm ready to go when I return to writing, after our vacation. And hopefully, I'll have a clearer direction on how to start Chapter 8.

Maybe, stalling at this point is exactly what I needed.