The Maze Runner

My youngest daughter has always been a character.

At six months old, just before DW snapped a photo of her, our newest family member turned her head slightly to the side, looked directly into the lens, and smiled.

In October, 2009, our young daughter met some of our friends, who live in Germany, for the first time, in Venice, Italy. True to character, she was full of unbridled pep.

Campo de Pozzi

On the second day in Venice (October 4), our six-year-old got off a water bus in the Arsenale district and asked us if she could lead our family and friends back to our rental apartment. We had only taken this route, a labyrinth of narrow corridors, a couple of times, but we figured, why not?

She started walking through the pathway between two buildings, the corridor so narrow that you could effortlessly touch the walls on both sides, and had to squeeze over when you encountered people who were walking in the opposite direction. When our daughter came to an intersection, she raised her chin and looked upward, almost as though she was sniffing the air to get her bearings. After a second or two, she'd choose a direction and lead us on.

She brought us straight to Campo de Pozzi, the plaza where our apartment was situated. We were all amazed.

That Sunday had started early, with DW, the girls, and I heading straight to San Marco Square, from which we took a water bus across the wide channel, to the little island that is home to San Giorgio Maggiore Church. Our friends, who wanted to check out a gallery, went on their own. We agreed to meet up for lunch.

The island, which dates back to the Roman Empire, has had a church since the early 800s AD. One of the main features, besides the massive church, is its tower, which you enter through the church. As we entered the church, a flood of music echoed within, coming from a choir that was practicing. We stopped to listen to them before we started our ascent.

At the top of the tower, looking northward, you have a commanding view of the main island of Venice and San Marco Square. Looking southward, you see the slim island and protective barrier of Lido, and beyond that, the Adriatic Sea. I couldn't imagine the tower in San Marco Square offering a better view, simply because the lineups meant that you'd be in a crowd of many. On San Giorgio, we had the top-floor view virtually to ourselves.

Once I had all the photos that my family could endure, we made our way back to the main island and met up with our friends, where we lunched, shopped, and wandered the many streets. We decided to head to a grocery store, to pick up supplies for dinner, which we planned to have at the apartment. DW and our oldest daughter went off in search of souvenirs while our friends, my youngest daughter, and I found a local shop, near our apartment.

Again, we needed a map to get to the shop, but when we were ready to return to our apartment, my daughter asked if she could lead the way. This was a new route and we were sure she wouldn't be able to find her way, but she led as though she was a native resident.

Funny how today, she's so bad at getting around Ottawa on her own.

On Monday, we took the tour of San Marco Museum, the Basilica, and the Doge's Palace, crossing the Bridge of Sighs into the prison, Circolo Artistico. After a romp in San Marco Square, where the kids once again chased pigeons, we retired for the last night in the apartment. The next day, the family and I were returning to Rome, while our friends were heading back to Germany.

I have to say, though it is pretty, Venice is my least favourite of all the Italian cities I've visited. It's full of tourist vendors, selling cheap trinkets at extortionist prices. Hosts at restaurants are not welcoming, as they are in other towns: it's as though they're tired of seeing another visitor and couldn't wait for us to leave.

Restaurants were expensive and the quality of food was lacking. Gelato is the worst I've ever had anywhere.

Visiting Venice reminded me of visiting the tourist district of Niagara Falls, Ontario. The falls, which are the only real draw, are spectacular, much like the architecture of Venice is a must-see. But everything else is artificial and tacky.

If you haven't been, go: but arrive in the evening, spend one full day, and then leave first thing the next morning. Go to the museums, churches, and palaces: avoid the shopping venues. Don't expect a great culinary experience and expect to pay a lot.

If you're looking for a romantic city, go elsewhere. There are plenty of romantic cities in Tuscany.

I was glad I went, happy for the chance to spend time with our friends. But I feel that we had spent too much time in this city.

Tomorrow, 11 years ago, would be our last full day in Italy. Stay tuned...