Monday, May 31, 2021

Postcards from Germany

I have to admit that I'm not enjoying the Romantic Road as much as I hoped I would.

As with the Camino de Santiago and the LEJOG virtual challenges, I was looking forward to exploring the countryside as my exercise took me forward along the trail from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein Castle, in Germany's Bavarian region.

Shortly after setting out from the Würzburg Residence, where I had a 360-degree view within the palace, I discovered that my first few stops offered no Google Maps street views, and so I would see where I was on the standard map but would only have satellite views of the towns and villages.

The Romantic Road did not offer me a virtual glimpse of my surroundings. At the end of a day, when my activity was logged on to The Conqueror Virtual Challenges app, I couldn't 'wander' the streets to find local pubs or possible places to virtually lodge for the night.



In some places, there are points on the map that indicate someone has taken a 360-degree snapshot of a single point, and I can see what a town or village looks like from that one point, but it's not the same as being able to move around. I'm not so much virtually travelling the Romantic Road as I am simply moving a pin with my face on it around a map.

The only way I learn anything about where I am is when I pass a particular milestone and earn a virtual postcard, which tells me a bit about that area. I've shared some of these postcards from the other treks, but they're also not the same as exploring the landscape by moving along the street in Google Maps.

Here are the postcards I've received so far (they're made to look as though I've actually sent them out, but I wouldn't write as cheesy as the creators of the app do).



I'm actually thinking that I might increase my speed through this virtual trek to be done with it as quickly as possible, and to find another journey that allows me to move as the previous two journeys did.

And anyway, I'll be heading to Germany in 2022 and I'll be able to really see the countryside.

Looking at the next virtual challenge, I've signed up for Iceland's 1,332-km Ring Road challenge. I've always wanted to see Iceland, and this route promises street views.

Stay tuned.

Friday, May 28, 2021

Fade to Black

My intent was to simply photograph the pavilion.

It had been more than two months since I had picked up my D-SLRs and had left my neighbourhood, specifically to take pictures. But the tulips had already reached their peak and if I didn't get out to capture them at that time, I would probably miss capturing them at their best.

In fact, when I reached Commissioner's Park, next to Dow's Lake, some of the tulips had already started losing their petals. Still, there were plenty of flowers that were worth snapping.

It was a still evening and there wasn't a single ripple on Dow's Lake. My first instinct was to capture the pavilion with a perfect reflection on the water. The clouds, above, were looking somewhat dramatic and though I wasn't going to get warm, glowing colours from sunset—the sun was hidden behind dense cloud—the light cast a dark tone onto the lake.

I photographed a closeup of the pavilion but then drew back, went wide, and noticed that the water, as it came closer to me, was almost black. I had my two D-SLRs with me: my Nikon D750 had my fast 24–70mm lens mounted on it; my D7200 had my super-wide 10–20mm lens. I carried both cameras, so equipped, that I could quickly capture all sorts of images without having to switch lenses on a single body.

With the widest lens, I locked my focus on the pavilion and then recomposed my shot to show more water, creating some negative space. I took one landscape orientation and one portrait orientation. The latter was my fave.


You can see the other photos on my Instagram account.

Happy Friday!

Thursday, May 27, 2021

The Concert that Almost Killed Me

In the 80s, the worst venue for a live show had to be the Ottawa Civic Centre. And the worst place to be in that arena was in general admission.

You would think that the home ice to the Ottawa 67s would be cool all the time, but you would be wrong. During a concert, when the rink space would be converted to a stage and general-admission area, the ice was covered up and the mass of bodies would heat up the entire venue.

Imagine paying $15.50 to see U2 today!
So when my friends and I bought general-admission tickets, in 1985, to see U2 for their Unforgettable Fire tour, we had made a big mistake.

I bought the t-shirt before we went into the stadium—another mistake. I was afraid that the t-shirts wouldn't be available after the show, so I pulled it over the shirt that I had worn to the concert, which showed the cover of my favourite U2 album, War.

We made our way to as near the stage as we could get. In a couple of places, narrow runways led away from the main stage so that Bono could walk further out to the crowd and be surrounded on three sides by his adoring fans.

I don't remember the opening act, which leads me to believe that they were forgettable. If an opening band is good, I often seek out their music after the show. But I remember that despite being the beginning of spring, the general admission area was as hot and humid as the height of summer.

People were passing out and being carried away by security. Water was being sprayed on those fortunate enough to be within range of the garden hoses, but even that water added to the mugginess of the Civic Centre.

At one point, during the show, Bono appealled to the technicians and arena operators to do something about the heat. Several times, he asked that doors be opened and that the air-conditioning units be turned on. But for us in the thick of the packed crowd and sweltering heat, nothing changed. I had taken off my new shirt before U2 had hit the stage and clung onto it, waving it like a flag at the end of each number.

There was almost a sense of relief when the show ended and my friends and I made our way for the outdoor air. There had been moments when I thought I would have succumbed to the heat like so many others, but cool, fresh air awaited us as we headed toward the exit.

Because everyone in the general-admission area was so desperate to escape the heat, there was an almost panic-like rush to get out. I felt as though I was being carried in a current, rather than of my own volition.

And that's when I accidentally dropped my t-shirt.

I've always had fast reflexes and have often been able to catch something that I've dropped before it hits the ground. As the shirt left my grip, I stooped over to grab it before it was trampled by the exiting crowd.

Biggest mistake.

The person behind me, who was purposefully making his or her way forward, bumped into me and knocked me off balance. And then another person crashed into us. And so on. While I had managed to retrieve my t-shirt, I was now feeling the heavy weight of people on me and was unable to stand back up.

While I cannot quite say that I was starting to panic, I was aware that if I couldn't recover swiftly, I would start to panic. But as I reached that point, I felt a hand grab one of my arms and pull. The person who held onto me was also being moved by the crowd, so with a community effort, my friend was able to get me upright and prevent me from being further crushed.

It's funny: after all these years, I can't remember which of my friends rescued me. I tend to think it was my best friend, Stuart, but I also have memories of another friend, Rick, being there. And Rick was built like a quarter back and had the strength to pull me out from under the other fallen bodies.

I don't remember much about what happened immediately after. I hate to think of what might have been if my friend hadn't rescued me. But I remember the heat of the arena and the crush of the crowd as much as I remembered the show itself.

And I had the t-shirt to prove I had survived it.

Monday, May 24, 2021

Moving in a New Direction

Thursday might be okay.
When my Samsung smart watch told me that I had climbed 127 floors at the end of one day (that's like climbing the stairs to the top of Seoul's Lotte World Tower, plus another four floors!), I knew it was time to look for a replacement.

I'm not saying that I couldn't walk that many flights of stairs in a day, but I'd have to intentionally set out to do that. Typically, on a good week, my average daily floor average rarely exceeded 20.

The watch also started counting floors while I was sleeping or sitting on the sofa, watching TV. Even when I was exercising on my stationary bike, it would tack on a couple of floors during a workout.

And it always bothered me that when I was cleaning the kitchen, constantly moving in a relatively small space, the watch would not count the footsteps that I took.

The Samsung Health app that I had on my phone was much better at recording movement. With my phone in my back pocket, it would record the steps that my watch missed. At the end of the day, the app on the phone recorded more steps than my watch.

And that also bothered me: even though the Samsung watch was supposedly synchronizing with Samsung Health, the steps were never in sync. Nor were some of my workouts. For example, if I completed a workout on my spin bike, the elapsed time would be put toward my overall daily activity. But if I went outdoors on my road bike, the elapsed time would not count toward my overall daily activity. Apparently, only exercise that I initiated through my watch, rather than through the app on my phone, or exercise that was detected by the watch were put toward my daily activity.

My goal for each day was to count at least an hour of activity. Imagine my disappointment, after a 75-minute ride, that my stats would show, as I climbed into bed, that I hadn't reached my daily activity goal.

Even though I would regularly restart my watch and that I kept the Samsung Gear and Health apps up to date, the problems seemed to mount. I had even performed a total reset, twice, without solving my issues.

After three and a half years with this watch, and more than five years with Samsung Fit Gear watches, it was time to look elsewhere.

Initially, I was tempted to upgrade to another Samsung watch: particularly, the Galaxy 3. I loved the Samsung Health app and have been a fan of Samsung products for many years. My last three smartphones, our main TV, and a soundbar have all been reliable devices. The only reason why I upgraded my last Fit Gear watch was because my first one wasn't waterproof, and I wanted to wear it while I swam laps in our local pool.

The Galaxy 3 garnered good reviews, was stylish, and—most importantly—would pair perfectly with the health app that I've used for years and with which I was most familiar. But the price point was more than I wanted to spend and I wasn't crazy that the wrist strap was leather. How would it hold up to a chlorinated pool?

DW has an Apple watch and suggested that I get one, but after being an Android convert, I wasn't interested in going back to Apple. And again, there was the price point. (DW might be all right with spending big bucks on a watch but I wasn't.)

I then began reading positive reviews on Garmin watches. For many years, Garmin has been a leader in sport watches and I found a model that seemed to fit what I was looking for, especially because DW (needlessly) worries about my overall health—heart rate, oxygen levels, stress levels (okay, that one is valid), and breathing, especially while asleep (I haven't used my CPAP machine in more than a year). The watch was stylish and had a plastic strap: perfect for water activities.

And best of all, I found this Garmin watch, the Venu, on the Aeroplan merchandise site, so I was able to use points, rather than cash, to purchase it.



Straight out of the box, I put the watch to the test, plotting my final ride of my LEJOG virtual challenge. The watch has built-in GPS, so it's super-accurate and it also provides ample heath stats at various stages of the ride.

When I set out on a ride, the watch automatically sends a notification to DW, providing her with a link that allows her to track where I am. When I was an iPhone user, I used an app called Cyclemeter to do the same thing. But with the Garmin watch, if I fall off my bike, the watch will send an emergency notification to DW, showing her where I am.

That gives her some relief when I head out on a solo ride.

My first ride with the Garmin Venu.

In addition to monitoring my heart rate, the watch will also warn me if my heart beats exceed a pre-determined rate: I have it set to notify me when I go over 100 bps when I'm at rest and already it has set off one warning (I was fine).

There are lots of features that I haven't used yet, like the music feature or Garmin Pay, where I can use my watch to tap and pay for any purchases. But I didn't use the music feature on my previous watches and I've never used my phone for tap-and-pay purchases, either.

I've also disabled the feature that tracks women-specific health, such as menstrual cycle.

One nice bonus with the Venu is its long-life battery. With my Samsung watches, I found that I had to charge it each night, that it couldn't go two full days between charges, and I didn't want to take it off during the day to top it up. As a result, there were many evenings when I would go to sleep without wearing it and would miss out on the sleep-monitoring features.

The Garmin watch can go about five days between charges, and in the week that I've owned it, I've only had to charge it once (not counting the initial charge). My sleep stats have been recorded every night, as I've been able to fully charge the phone in just over an hour (which I've done while watching TV).

I like how the watch displays little blue footprints that walk all over the screen to mark when my step target is reached, or doubled. It also seems to count the steps that I take as I clean the kitchen, so I'm getting a more accurate count.

I love how, so far, it accurately records the number of floors that I've climbed!

I'm still getting familiar with my Venu. I've customized the face countless times and I've added and removed widgets as I've tailored the watch to meet my needs. But so far, so good. Both watch and Garmin's Connect app have been perfectly in sync. The watch even synchronizes with my Conqueror Virtual Challenges app, so I don't have to manually record my daily distances on my virtual journeys, which was the case with my Samsung watch.


This year has been one that has seen me more active than I have been in decades. And with this new watch, I am hoping to accurately keep track of these activities. I'll let you know how it goes.

And who knows? Maybe, someday, I'll actually climb 127 floors in one day.

Friday, May 21, 2021

Friday Fiction: Oral Exams

The following is a (very) rough-draft excerpt from my novel, Gyeosunim. If you haven't read my previous novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, be warned that there are spoilers and you may be missing some context.

And, as a side note, this is barely fiction: though all names are made-up, the interaction between the students and Roland are experiences that I actually faced as an English teacher at Jeonju University.


Friday, June 19, 1998

I had six hundred and forty-four students and only one week in which to administer oral exams to all of them. It was a logistical nightmare that had me in my office from seven o’clock in the morning until half-past seven in the evening all week. The only breaks I took were worked into the schedule: a five-minute bathroom break three times—mid-morning, after lunch, and mid-afternoon—and lunch from noon to a quarter past. Cathy, who was usually at her desk from eleven until noon, would order my lunch to be delivered at precisely twelve o’clock. It was now the final day and I was still waiting for some of my best—and worst—students to show up.

I had made a one-week calendar with fifteen-minute time slots throughout. Two students were to sign up for each slot. In the week that led to the exams, I brought the sign-up sheet into every classroom and told my students to find a partner and write their student numbers into the provided spaces. All they had to do after signing up was to show up at their scheduled time. I took approximately ten minutes to administer the exam, which permitted extra time for if they were a few minutes late or if they wanted to talk for a few minutes after we were finished.

Because I had so many students to get through, I made one thing absolutely clear in every class, leading up to the exams: I had no extra time to afford to any student who missed his or her time slot. If you missed your time, you would receive an automatic zero and you would be marked as absent, which could also hurt you. The university policy was to award a failing grade to any student who was absent more than five times. And I already had some students who were at their limit.

I had had a couple of no-shows from some of my students. At times, a student would arrive without his or her partner, and so I would be able to finish the exam in less than ten minutes, as some of the exercises, where I would have the two students interact, would be cut out or curtailed, with me acting as the partner. Sometimes, both students would fail to appear, and such occurrences were bittersweet: as much as I hated awarding two failing grades, I welcomed the short mental break that the fifteen-minute gap provided.

But I was shocked and saddened when, after one such break, when I was expecting the twin sisters, Hae-sung and Su-hee, they came in just as my next two students had sat down for their appointment.

“You’re late,” I said as they stood by the seated students.

“No,” said Hae-sung, looking confused, “We meet at ten-pipteen.”

In my hands was a clipboard that held the schedule. “No,” I said, pointing to their student numbers in a time slot, “you signed up in the ten-o’clock slot. You were supposed to be finished at ten fifteen, not start.”

“Huh??” exclaimed Su-hee, who then began whining at and slapping her sister. “You tell me wrong time.”

“I’m sorry, ladies, you’re going to have to take that outside. I have these two students with whom I must attend.”

Tears welled under Hae-sung’s eyes as she realized her costly mistake. And while they backed away from the chairs and table that I had arranged for this exam, they did not leave the office. It didn’t matter to me if they listened in. I had customized the exams based on the proficiency of the students, and had three different sets of questions and activities, based on that proficiency. The students at the ten-fifteen exam time were from my basic-level classroom. Hae-sung and Su-hee were nearly fluent in English. But these basic students were among the top of their class, and we went through the questions and exercises quickly enough that I had more than five minutes to spare before the next two students were scheduled to begin.

I called the twins over and bade them to sit. “What am I going to do with you? You are both some of my best students.”

“I am so sorry, Gyeosunim. It is my fault. I remembered the wrong time and told my sister. Please don’t punish her for my mistake.”

Her English was accented but otherwise flawless. Even my most-challenging exercises for her class level were no match for her comprehension. She and her sister didn’t really need my class but it was a requirement for their programme, which was Education. In the months since our first class, they would often visit me during my office hours, and I learned that their father was a doctor, who had studied in the UK. Their mother was a high-school English teacher. Both girls had been placed in hagwons from an early age, so there really was nothing more that I could teach them in class. They liked to visit me so that we could engage in casual conversation.

To fail them for a stupid mistake would have been heartbreaking. And seeing the sorrow on their faces was pretty hard to bear. “I know that you would have received a perfect score on this exam,” I said, “but I will have to think about what I’m going to do.”

“Please,” said Su-hee, “forgive us. We simply cannot fail English. Our parents would be ashamed and embarrassed for us.”

Again, with perfect grammar, and with a vocabulary that was beyond what the study books offered. Even their accents weren’t as harsh as I had come to expect. Su-hee pronounced forgive as “poh-gib” but not as “poh-gib-uh,” as most of my students did.

“Come to class on Monday,” I said. “I won’t fail you but I have to consider some sort of penalty. And you are not to discuss this with anyone else. I made it clear that failing to show up meant failing the course, and I don’t want everyone who has already missed their opportunity to beg me for another chance. I simply don’t have the time.”

“We understand, Gyeosunim. Thank you,” said Hae-sung.

The next students came through the door, and the twins headed out. Raymond, whose desk was closest to where I was holding the exams and had been marking exams of his own, said, “I know what I would have asked for to give them top marks. Meet me here at the end of the day, after everyone has gone home.”

I didn’t respond. I knew he was joking; at least, I hoped that he was joking.

The exams continued into the afternoon with their ups and downs. Two students from my evening class, who were at a basic level of English and had signed up for the same slot, were Hong Sang-woo, the retired television news anchor, and Lee Ha-nui, the young woman who always sat beside him in class and was always helping Hong with classroom exercises. As the months progressed, I had often wondered if Hong was suffering from some mental deterioration, as his responses in class were slow and he often appeared confused, not only as though he didn’t understand the lesson but also as though he wasn’t exactly sure where he even was. But when the two walked into my office, he was speaking to Lee excitedly and rapidly, albeit in Hangul. It was sheer nervousness, for as he sat down across from me, the confused look and slow responses returned.

Throughout the exercises, Lee continued to prod Hong and would even whisper the answers to him, though I constantly told her, “he can do this, Miss Lee.” At one point, I leaned forward and placed my face close to Hong’s. I smiled. “How are you, Mr. Hong?”

His face brightened as the most basic answer came to him. “I am fine, thank you. How are you?”

“I am good, Mr. Hong. Very good.” I held up a laminated card that I had made for the exams and turned it in a way that Miss Lee couldn’t see. It was a drawing of an umbrella with drops of water falling above it. “How is the weather?” I asked him, my face still close to his, still smiling.

The fear returned. He studied the picture but no answer came readily.

“Is it sunny?”

Some hesitation, and then a shy “No.”

“No, it is not sunny,” I said. “How is the weather?”

More hesitation. “Rain.”

“Good, yes. Is it raining?”

“Yes… yes… it rain.”

“Yes, good, it is raining?”

“It is raining,” he repeated.

When our time was up, Hong returned to his more lively state. He stood up and, with another rehearsed line, said, “Thank you. Have a good day.”

I gave him a passing grade. Barely.

Yi Shin-hye, the student who I told was beautiful on our first day, had scheduled a slot on her own. She arrived with a plastic container that was wrapped in a handkerchief that was pattered with red hearts and puckered lips. The clear container, still a little warm, was packed with rolls, like sushi, but were called kimbap. And although the Korean and Japanese dishes looked similar, the flavour profile was different. Kimbap was somewhat sweeter and the filling typically tended to use ham or marinated beef, rather than seafood, along with thin strips of carrot and cucumber. The kimbap in the container was decoratively displayed with the outer wrappings both in traditional seaweed and also a thin wrapping of fried egg, and each was staggered in a way that looked like a checkerboard.

“I made myself,” she said as she presented them to me, with both hands, her eyes never leaving my own.

“A-plus,” I said. “Thank you, you can go.” The confusion on her face was worth the joke, but I stopped her as she began to rise from her seat. “I’m kidding, I’m kidding. This was very nice of you to do, these look delicious. I will eat them for lunch.” Luckily, Cathy had yet to ask me for my lunch order so the kimbap was a welcome offer.

“You can eat them now,” said Shin-hye. I could see in her eyes that she wanted me to taste them and give my approval. I opened the container, which had a pair of wooden chopsticks in a criss-cross across the top of the rolls. I picked up an egg-wrapped roll, with a ham centre, and popped it in my mouth.

“Mmm,” I said, “Masissayo.” Delicious. In truth, it was the best kimbap I had ever eaten.

“Try the other one,” she said, her smile beaming. “It has bulgogi.” Again, it was superb.

“We must start the exam,” I said, but like the twins in her class, she was fluent. Her grammar wasn’t perfect and she would sometimes leave out prepositions and articles, but her vocabulary was sound and I could always understand her. I had some exercises for her level of comprehension but I thought we would just chat. “How are you doing?”

“I am fine, thank you. How are you?”

“I am doing much better, now that I have these,” I said, holding up another roll. “Tell me about your other classes.”

She was an economics student and she proceeded to tell me about her other classes and the teachers. She had a best friend, Bae-eun, and they were in every class, together, except for English, in which Russell was her friend's teacher.

Shin-hye turned the tables on me and began asking me questions. “Are you married?”

“No,” I said, keeping my answer short.

“Do you have girlfriend?”

“That’s a personal question,” I said, “but no, I don’t have a girlfriend.”

“A girlfriend, yes. Sorry.”

“Sorry about the grammar mistake or sorry about not having a girlfriend?”

She laughed. “A-ha, yes, both, I think.”

“You must have a boyfriend,” I said and immediately regretted it. I was making the same mistake as I did in our first class. There was no doubt that Shin-hye had a crush on me and it was foolish for me to do or say anything that would encourage her.

“No, no boyfriend. Not yet. Do you think you will marry some day?”

“I don’t know,” I said. I thought of Tanya and how she could have been the one. But it was my inability to have children with her that killed that possibility. “Some day, if I find the right person,” I said, absently, still thinking of the happiness that Tanya and I once enjoyed.

I changed the subject and asked her about her family, about whether she had travelled, and her career plans. She had an older brother and her family once went to San Francisco to visit an aunt and uncle, but she really hadn’t travelled much outside her province.

“I want to marry a Canadian and move to Canada. I can be an economist.” Again, she looked at me with lustful eyes.

Good thing I’m a Scot, I told myself.

***

Kim Kyu-jong, the student whose phone I confiscated at our first meeting, came to my office mid-afternoon. His exam time was scheduled mid-morning.

“I sick. I have note.” He passed me a slip of paper that had a letterhead and a handwritten message, all in Hangul. I saw a word that piqued my curiosity, so I took the note to the back of the office, where Choi Chul-won was working at his desk.

“Can you please tell me what this is?” I said, handing him the note.

He read the letterhead and then the handwriting. “This is a receipt for the installation of a car stereo system.”

I pointed to the letterhead. “That’s the name of the service centre?”

“Yes.”

“Thank you.” I carried the slip back to the student, who saw my exchange. “I hope it’s a very good sound system,” I said, handing him back his receipt. “Why don’t you spend the rest of the day in your car, listening to music and thinking about your F?”

***

Another student who failed to show up to his exam time. He was an obscure student, one with whom I hadn’t taken much notice during the semester. He was neither eager nor disruptive, and blended in with his classmates. But he came to my office an hour late.

“I’m sorry,” he said, “I was sleeping late. I stay awake all night.”

“What were you doing all night?”

“Watching FIFA World Cup.”

The world-championship football event had started more than a week ago, and it was what so many were talking about, especially because South Korea was doing so well and the country was vying to host the games in 2002. Indeed, signs were posted all over Chŏnju, one of the cities that was hoping to bring the games to its doorstep. Though I had been stuck in the office all week, we would occasionally turn on the television to watch some of the highlights.

“Well, I’m glad to hear that you have your priorities straight.”

“Can I have one more chance?” he asked.

I paused, then said, “Wait a minute: Korea wasn’t playing last night.”

“Sorry?”

“You see, if Korea had been playing, last night, I could understand why you would have wanted to stay up all night. I would have given you another chance.”

“Really?” his eyes went wide with hope.

“No, not really. Get out.”

***

Another disappointment from a top student. Kim Jung-eun, who had attended every class, who was keen to participate, who had done well on assignments, came rushing into my office just as I was finishing with his exam partner, who had also been dismayed at Kim’s absence. Kim was out of breath and sweating.

“Forgive me,” he said, panting. “Bus crashed.”

“Crashed?” I said, “Is everybody all right?”

“No, sorry, not crashed. Uh… engine stopped.”

“Ah, you mean it broke down.”

“Yes, broke down. I ran all the way here.”

“I appreciate your efforts to get here, Mr. Kim, but I have two more students who will be here any minute. I’m sorry, I have no time for you.”

“But I must have my exam. I must.”

I held up my clipboard, which had the schedule for the rest of today. I was reluctant to show him up close, as I had written grades next to the students who had either completed their oral exam or had missed their appointment. I had already written an F next to his student number. “I am completely full,” I said. “I don’t have time for you.”

“After everyone is finished?” he offered.

I was already tired and hot, and feeling irritable after I had had other students, who had arrived late, give me lame excuses and begged for second chances. While Kim’s excuse was reasonable and he had made an effort, I wasn’t in the mood to hear it. “So, what you’re asking me, is that if everyone else comes to their allotted time slot, at the end of the day, when I’m tired, hungry, and just want to go back to my apartment, and maybe enjoy an evening with my friends, I should postpone those plans because you were late for your exam?”

“Yes,” he said, and then after a pause, added, “please.”

The next two students were at my door. “You’re going to have to go.”

Jung-eun dropped to his knees at my feet. “Please.”

“You’re embarrassing yourself. Please leave.”

“I will not leave.”

“You are now taking time away from my other students,” I said. “There’s nothing to be done now. Please get up.”

He remained in place. I motioned to the other students and directed them to the chairs opposite mine. Reluctantly, they came in and sat down.

“Get up, Mr. Kim.”

“I won’t.”

I placed a hand on his shoulder and tried to move him, but he wrapped his arms around my legs. I feared that I would lose balance and fall backwards, so I grabbed him by the hair and tried to pull him up.

“I don’t want to hurt you,” I said, “but I will remove you by force if you don’t leave.” He was sobbing, partly in surrender and partly because my pulling on his hair must have been starting to cause him pain. He did get back on his feet but he refused to move. I released his hair, placed the hand on his shoulder, and looked him in the eyes. “Come on, now,” I said in a soft voice, “it’s over. Time to go. Let these students have their time.” I led him out of the office and closed the door. I felt like shit at my behaviour, at pulling on his hair. I conducted the oral exam with the other students but my heart wasn’t in it and they looked at me in fear. Because the commotion had cut into the beginning of their time slot, we went right until the end of the fifteen-minute period. As they left, the next two students came in, and I could see Kim Jung-eun in the corridor, looking at me. He remained until after six o’clock but I lost sight of him after then. Perhaps he was around the corner; perhaps he was gone.

As my final students finished their exam, I walked them to the door to show them out and I saw no sign of Kim in the hallway. With all of the teachers already gone for the weekend, I turned off the light and closed the door. There was ample light coming through the windows but because the sun was on the opposite side of the building, dark shadows were cast throughout the room. Back at my desk, I looked at the signup sheets and began transferring the marks to the official class records. I had done this every evening this week so that I didn’t have an overwhelming amount to do in one go. Comparing the actual marks with the bell curve that had been suggested by our department head, things looked like they were falling in line. I had about thirty students who didn’t show up for their exam; twice as many were in the A-plus category. The bulk were in the middle of the road: good enough to not have to worry about passing the course.

I didn’t hear her come in and didn’t notice her until she was nearly at my desk. It was Bak Hae-sung, one of the twins. She was wearing her backpack and looked like she was ready to go home.

“Oh, Miss Bak, what brings you here? I’m just about to leave.”

“Please, Roland Gyeosunim, I want to talk to you. Please don’t give my sister an F. It was not her fault, it was mine. You can give me an F but please don’t give one to Su-hee. Please, I’ll do anything.”

The straps of her backpack were snug against her shoulders and pulled on her grey t-shirt, making it tight across her chest. She was not wearing a bra and even in this low light, I could detect the contours of her nipples on her small breasts. It wasn’t surprising that she wasn’t wearing a bra, as I had on a couple occasions unintentionally noticed the absence of the undergarment. Hae-sung had a habit of sitting at her desk in such a way that when she was either reading from her workbook or working on an assignment, she would lean into the desktop, which would pull her shirt tight and leave her breasts resting on the desktop. When she did this, and particularly when she was engrossed in a test paper, her right hand would be holding her pen while her left arm was bent across the desktop, and her left hand would absently play with her right nipple.

She wasn’t aware of what she was doing and I didn’t think it was an erotic gesture, but it had certainly caught my attention as my eyes scanned the room, making sure that no one was cheating. And now I could make out her nipples again and I felt uncomfortable. Her hands moved down to her yellow skirt, which was cut above the knees, and she began to raise it so that I could see the triangle of her underwear. “I’ll do anything.”

“Miss Bak, no!” I exclaimed, jumping up from my desk and backing away. “Please stop.”

She dropped her skirt and began to cry. “Please.”

“I’ve already told you that I won’t fail you. Why are you doing this?”

“We must have perfect grades,” she said. “We are applying to Chŏnbuk National University for next year. They accept only so many students. We had good marks last year but not good enough for Chŏnbuk Dae. That is why we are here. If we have perfect marks this year, maybe they will accept us next year.”

“I wish you had explained that to me before you offered yourself,” I said, somewhat calmer. “I understand. I know you are smart students. I know that if you had made it to your exam on time, you and your sister would have earned a perfect score.”

I gave a deep sigh as I weighed my options. I had already failed many students, but those who came to me with poor excuses or tried to fool me deserved to fail, as did the ones who didn’t show up at all, with no explanation. And then there was Kim Jung-eun, another good student who had a better excuse for his tardiness but who I threw out of my office. Should I make an exception for him, too? If I was going to make an exception for the Bak twins, I had to make one for him, too. Assuming, of course, that I’d see him back in my class again.

“Tell your sister that you both will have an A-plus grade in my class. But you must come to every class: not even one absence unless you are sick and have a doctor’s note. And you must continue to get excellent grades for the remainder of the year. But this will be between you, your sister, and me. Do not tell any other student.”

“Thank you, Gyeosunim. I will tell her and no one else. And we will come to every class, and we will work very hard.”

“And,” I added, “you will keep your clothes on.”

Thursday, May 20, 2021

The Big Chair Tour

In high school, I had friends in many camps. I had the academic friends, who received perfect grades and were pretty straight-laced, though they still liked to party and have fun.

I had friends who did okay in school or were barely scraping by, who liked to party more than hit the books.

And I had friends who were somewhere in between.

But all of my friends, no matter which camp they came from, had one thing in common: music.

No matter which group of friends I hung out with, we all pretty much listened to the same music. And if these groups varied in any musical taste, I tried to bring it all together.

There was only one friend who didn't like one particular band, who made fun of their music, and that band was Tears for Fears.

I can still hear him mocking one of their top hits:

Trout, trout, let your line out,
These are the fish I can do without...

It was funny, but I didn't like how he mocked me for my appreciation of the band.

When The Hurting was released in 1983, it was innovative and complex, with great percussion and rhythm. It was also very somber and deep, and many songs made it to my Depression Hits mixed audio cassette, full of angst and sadness. (I made several volumes, along with CarToons.)

When Songs From the Big Chair came out, Tears for Fears was one of my favourite bands, right up there with Peter Gabriel, Talk Talk, Simple Minds, and Ultravox.

My ticket stub.
So naturally, when Tears for Fears came to Ottawa for their Big Chair Tour on June 3, 1985, I had to see them. It was a great show, with Roland Orzabel and Curt Smith giving lots of energy in a solid performance. A couple of months ago, DW came across my ticket for that show and it brought back lots of memories (I think Cory Hart may have opened for them... or did he open for Culture Club? I saw so many concerts in the 80s). Though my friends and I were several rows back (apparently, section 21, row K, seat 15, for me), at the Ottawa Civic Centre, my friends and I had a great view of the whole stage.

And at least we weren't in the overheated crush of general admission. (More on that, next week.)

When the duo split up, in 1991, I sort of lost a bit of interest in the band. Orzabel continued to write and perform under Tears for Fears, but the energy of the duo seemed to fizzle, for me.

It wasn't until, in 2003, I heard a song from Orzabel's 1993 album, Elemental, that I renewed my love of the music. Orzabel and Smith reunited in 2000 and they have even toured, as a united Tears for Fears, as recently as 2019. If they make it back to Ottawa, I'll be sure to grab some tickets.

I'll leave this post with the song that renewed my love of the band: "Goodnight Song."

Happy Thursday!

Wednesday, May 19, 2021

John o' Groats

John o' Groats wasn't even born a Scot.

His real name, Jan de Groot, reveals that he was actually a Dutch settler who came to the northern tip of mainland Scotland around 1489. (It's funny to refer to the main body of Scotland the 'mainland,' given that Scotland is a part of Great Britain, an island nation.) From this area, de Groot operated a ferry service to the Orkney islands.

But the village of John O'Groats is the final stop of the trail that starts at Land's End, in Cornwall, England, and it's where I virtually found myself on Monday evening. I completed my 1,744-kilometre challenge with a nearly 32-km bike ride and nearly four kilometres of walking. I started on March 1, making it a 78-day trek.

This was my second virtual challenge by The Conqueror Virtual Challenges app, but it wasn't my last. In fact, the day after I completed the LEJOG challenge, I started another. This time, I'm in Germany (virtually), starting on the legendary Romantic Road trek. This newest trail by The Conqueror is a 431-km journey from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein Castle, passing through vineyards and past beautiful scenery.

Last autumn, DW and I were supposed to go to Europe, visiting Belgium, The Netherlands, and Germany. We had actually planned to visit the palace in Würzburg, which is the starting point of the Romantic Road challenge. Until we can get to Germany—hopefully, next year—this will have to do.

Being a beer lover, I also like that the medal that I'll be awarded at the end of this challenge is shaped like a bier stein, complete with a levered lid.

After having completed the LEJOG virtual challenge, the distance in this German trail will be no problem for me, but I'm going to take my time. As the end of LEJOG approached, I began to feel fatigued, and my legs and knees were growing sore. Since January 5, I've been either on my spin bike or my road bike practically every single day. In more than four months, I've taken a break from a bike only two or three times, maximum.

I'm no spring chicken. I need to give my body some time to recover.

On the first day of the Romantic Road trek, I stuck to walking and barely got out of Würzburg. But that's okay. Today, I plan to get on my bike at the end of my workday and add at least another 30K. And throughout this journey, I'll only cycle every other day.

DW and I have also started kayaking again, so on the days that I paddle, I won't pedal.

As I've said before, these virtual challenges have kept me active and, in a very small but not insignificant way, have staved off my hunger from real travel. When we can finally explore the real world again, I have more places to add to my must-see destinations.

So it's goodbye to LEJOG, so long to John o' Groats, and hello to the Romantic Road.

Tuesday, May 18, 2021

Procrastination

My motivation for creating the video died with the battery on my camera.

I was paddling along Lake Stratton, in Algonquin Provincial Park, the wind at my back but still wanting to blow me to the opposite side from where I wanted to be, making me dig deep to keep my craft on course. My Insta360 One X camera had died, the last of the three batteries exhausted over the two days of use. I knew that I could always use my smartphone, which I had used for some other parts of this camping weekend, in late June of last year.


But I had lost interest in making a YouTube video of DW's and my adventure at the Achray Campground. I would use a couple segments of the video for Instagram posts and I would share some of the photos on The Brown Knowser, but I knew that creating a longer video of our weekend would take an effort that I wasn't sure that I wanted to spend.

When I recently saw that one of the kayaking videos on my Brown Knowser YouTube channel became the most-watched of all the videos by far (and, I admit, my channel has a very long way to go to get any traction), I wondered if the popularity came from people who were looking to explore Algonquin Park. After all, DW and I often go to YouTube before we consider embarking on some of our travels.

My YouTube channel, in fact, has been neglected over the past couple of months. I've been meaning to record more Beer O'Clock reviews, but I've been procrastinating. I don't really have any reasons or excuses for not doing a beer review other than, "I'll do it later. Not now."

There have been so many brews I've wanted to share. If only I had the time (I have the time).

My second most-watched video is also a kayaking adventure, and I started wondering if this should be my focus for my YouTube channel. I looked at all of the footage from Achray and wondered if I should make the video, after all.

I asked DW, who had also made some video recordings of our trip, to send me her footage. I would organize the clips into a storyboard and see what we had. I also took some screen captures of Algonquin Park, from Google Maps, and added them to the narrative.

Apart from having a clear ending to the video, I knew that I could put something together, relying on voiceover recordings, to tell the story. I decided to create the video.

That was a couple of months ago. While I had the desire, I still lacked the motivation. And so, I procrastinated some more.

It was only a couple of weeks ago that I decided to devote a couple of hours each week to assembling the video, stills, background music, and voiceovers. I tend to have my Brown Knowser blog posts completed a week or more in advance, and I had dedicated time where I worked on my novel, so I certainly had the time to work on the video.

I finished up the last of the voiceovers and assembled the video last Thursday. It's now live, on my Brown Knowser channel, and I've added it, below. When you have a chance, please give the 17-minute video a watch, and if you like it, please hit the Like button, and consider subscribing.

The more viewers I get, the more motivation I'll feel to keep recording, and the less procrastinating I'll do. Cheers!

Monday, May 17, 2021

The Unusual Suspects

I have my suspicions but I don't want to believe it.

Several years ago, we adopted a male tabby kitten out of impulse. Even though we had always been a one-cat family and were already enjoying the company of our black cat, Edwin, the kids still asked us to stop in at the local pet shops to check out the kittens for sale.

When we saw Jake, my girls were smitten. And when I held him in my arms, I have to admit that I didn't want to put him down. And so, we walked out with a companion for Edwin.

Except, Edwin was having none of it.

Admittedly, having an adult cat and a kitten isn't the best combination. The high-strung youngster, a ball of energy, always wants to play with the adult, and Jake was all over Edwin, rarely giving him a moment's peace. Being an outdoor cat, Edwin chose to only come in when he was hungry.

Having two male cats in the house also wasn't a great idea. We already knew that Edwin was an alpha male, and he had had several scraps with the other cats in our neighbourhood. He wasn't one to look for a fight but if one came to him, he wouldn't back away. I once saw him cornered by two other cats, and when they closed in, he took them both on. And won.

But little Jake also saw himself as an alpha cat and would try to dominate Edwin, much to his detriment. As I said, Edwin didn't start fights but he'd finish them, and we saw lots of times when we would see Jake taunting Edwin, only to watch as Edwin pinned the kitten down, growl, smack him in the head, and then let him go.

Jake became stressed at these encounters and as a way of dealing with this stress, he would hop on DW's and my bed and use it as a toilet.

The first time, we treated it as an accident; the second time, we knew that this was going to become a pattern, and we realized that Jake needed a home where he was the top—and preferably, only—cat. We lucked out and found a university student who was a cat lover and who desperately wanted one to care for. For the first year that she had Jake, she would send us photos of him, cuddled on her lap or playing with toys.

He looked happy and healthy, and we knew we made the right decision.

When our youngest kid begged us for a kitten that she could call her own, we cited the issues that we had with Jake. But she had done some research and convinced us that if the kitten was a female, there would likely not be the same power struggle that Edwin had endured with Jake. DW also suggested that we get two kittens, so that they would play with each other, rather than torment the adult cat.

I agreed, and we adopted Lily from the Humane Society. But we didn't get another kitten at the same time. We figured that we would see how Edwin got on with another kitten before we committed to a second. And while Lily was always looking to play with Edwin, he'd set boundaries that she seemed to respect.

When Camille was brought into the home, she was a perfect addition. Slightly older than Lily, she would play with the kitten while gently bonding with the adult. Camille would distract Lily from Edwin, but it was clear that Edwin was her favourite. It wasn't until after Edwin died that Camille would spend more time with Lily.

Last fall, when we brought Cece and Finn, we hoped that the cats would get along. Cece and Finn would play with one another and the other cats would tolerate them, having been used to several cats in the house. But that's not how it went down.

Lily, who still behaves like she's a kitten, likes to play with Cece and Finn. Finn is head-over-heels in love with Lily, and he loves to curl up with her.

But Camille has never taken to the kittens. She keeps her distance, and if either kitten gets near her, she'll hiss and take a swipe at them. She never flat-out fights them, and there are even times when she'll curl up on the same sofa, the same bed, or in the same cat tree to sleep. But it's clear that she's not as open to the kittens as Lily is.

Over the past week or so, Camille has become a bit more aggressive toward the kittens. She'll emit a long, low growl when they're in the same room. She'll move toward them to slap them. And if she jumps on my bed and finds one of the kittens have beaten her to it, she'll hiss and try to knock them off the bed.

I thought something was unusual when, a couple of weeks ago, Camille hopped onto my lap while I was at my desk, in a meeting. She rarely displays affection unless she wants something. This time, she was content to just be with me. And last week, when I headed upstairs to go to bed, Camille would follow me and want to be on the bed as I was winding down.

Except, the kittens also wanted to be on the bed.

I was in a deep sleep when I was awakened by the feeling that one of the cats was rummaging around the duvet at the small of my back. I didn't know which cat it was so I reached out, eyes still closed, to pet my furry companion. When the rummaging continued, I rolled from my side, onto my back, and that's when I felt it.

A puddle.

DW spelled "PEACE" on our signboard. The day before
the incident, one of our kids removed a couple of letters.
Did one of the cats read it and become inspired?
I tried to remember if I had a drink at my bedside and whether one of the cats had knocked it over. I remembered that I didn't have a drink next to me and, even if I did, there was no way that a cat could have knocked it onto my bed unless it had picked up the glass and lifted it more than a foot.

I smelled my wet hand and came fully awake as the pungent scent of urine filled my nostrils.

"Somebody peed on the bed," I said, sitting up.

DW also woke with a start. "What? Where?" I lifted the duvet and could feel a spot that was soaking. The mattress underneath was also wet, and as I got out of bed I realized that my pajamas and underwear, at the small of my back, were also soaked.

"Oh my God, the cat peed on me and it's run onto the bed."

"Are you sure that you didn't wet the bed?" DW asked, obviously still waking up.

"What? No! The front of my pants are dry, and unless I've grown some strange orifice above my butt, I'm pretty sure it was one of the cats."

Finn was at the spot, sniffing it and trying to cover it up. Cece was perched above us, on the bed's headboard, looking curious about the commotion. Camille was sitting on the floor by our bathroom door, trying to stay out of it.

As DW and I scrambled to strip down the bed and as I changed into another pair of pajamas, our youngest daughter, whose room is next to ours, heard the commotion and came to see what was going on. She sought out her cat and found that Lily was curled up on our family room sofa, sound asleep, oblivious to what had been going on upstairs.

So, who did the deed? Camille, Cece, and Finn had all been spread out at the end of our bed when DW and I turned out the lights. Our bedroom door was ajar, so if one of the cats needed to pee, they had a clear exit from our room. In the more than three years that we've had Camille, she's never had an accident. The kittens have been with us for about seven months and they have always made it to one of the litter boxes.

Finn was the one who was rooting around the crime scene, though he might have been trying to clean it up. Or play with it. I don't know what goes through a cat's head.



Cece is just a bit on the far side of crazy. She has freaked out, on occasion, and has done a pretty good impersonation of the Tasmanian Devil, but she's always been a clean cat.

I can't help but look toward Camille. She's already shown that she likes to pee in our bathroom sink, but if she had wanted to do that, she could have. That door stays open because we also keep a dish of water for the cats so that they have a place to drink without having to go downstairs at night.

She's been grumpier than usual and has been giving signals that she considers me to be her human. In addition to hopping on my lap—she's done it a couple of times since the first instance—she talks to me, letting me know when she wants to go outside. She often joins me in the bedroom when I want to watch a TV show that the rest of the family doesn't want to see. And she sometimes bites me, gently, on the legs, in what I've guessed is a loving gesture.

Was she marking me as her territory? Was she sending a message to the kittens, to back off? Or is she indicating her stress in the only way she knows how?

I'm also wondering if it's an indication that she has a physical health issue, and we've made an appointment with the vet to look into this. While DW took the sheets to the laundry room, I examined Camille to make sure that she was tick-free. If there was a health issue, I wanted to rule out this possibility.

Since this incident, there have been no more 'accidents.' We're not sure who committed the offence. We have three suspects, but this is highly unusual behaviour for any of them.

And the question is, if this happens again and we discover the culprit, what do we do?

Friday, May 14, 2021

Friday Fiction: Friday Night at TwoBeOne

The following is a rough-draft excerpt from my novel, Gyeosunim. If you haven't read my previous novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, be warned that there are spoilers and you may be missing some context.


Friday, May 15, 1998

Mr. Lee stood me up. Again.

This was the third Friday that he missed our lesson but the first time where he didn’t call me to let me know. The last time that I saw my old student was on April 24. We would often meet at my apartment, where we would have a formal lesson, and then we would go to dinner, where we would speak, in English only, for a couple more hours. Lee Hyo would always pay for the dinners, of course. At first, I tried to explain that he was already generously paying me for my time, but it became a futile argument. I was the teacher: he was the student. And the student always paid.

At our first meeting, in March, Mr. Lee insisted that he pay me for his lessons up-front, as he had done when I taught him at Kwon’s hagwon. I tried to explain that my other private students paid me at the end of each lesson, which was fair because sometimes, I had to cancel and other times, they would cancel. But Mr. Lee explained that sometimes, he might have to cancel a lesson at the last minute and that wasn’t fair to me. In some ways, I thought that Mr. Lee felt guilty about the hagwon’s sudden closure and about how Kwon had defaulted on paying me my final month’s salary, plus the stipend that was mandatory upon the end of my contract. I had met with Mr. Lee shortly after Kwon let me and the other teachers go, and he helped Tanya and me move from the apartment that Kwon had given us to the spare room in Jamie and Jody’s apartment. At the time, Mr. Lee told me that he wanted to continue lessons with me and would pay me the same fee that Kwon had charged him.

“Five-hundred-thousand won is too much,” I told Mr. Lee when he first came to my Junghwasan-Dong apartment.

“Not too much,” countered Mr. Lee, “you good teacher.”

“You are a good teacher,” I corrected, “and thank you.”

“See? You are a good teacher.”

“And you are a good student. And a good friend.”

“Yes, friend, also.”

On the last Friday in April, Mr. Lee gave me another bank draft for May’s classes but told me that he would be away on the first of the month, on business in Seoul.

“But why pay me the full amount if you know, this week, that you will be away? You pay me too much.”

“Not too much,” repeated Mr. Lee from our original conversation. “You are a good teacher.”

“Excellent, Mr. Lee, and thank you.”

On the following week, Mr. Lee called my pager number and left a message that he would be unable to attend that lesson, as well. And tonight, thirty minutes into our allotted time slot, Mr. Lee was absent without a message. With two more Fridays left in the month, I will have earned less than half of what he had paid me. For me, the guilt of being paid more than I was worth was greater than the anger I had felt when Kwon failed to pay me for what I was owed.

When more than an hour beyond the start of our lesson time had passed, I left my apartment and walked down the hallway toward Russell’s unit. His door was wide open, a clear indication that visitors were welcome.

The teachers on our floor came up with an unwritten system for visiting one another. If a door was wide open, anyone was welcome to walk right in. If a door was closed, we would knock before coming in. If a door was closed and locked, either the teacher was away or wanted some privacy.

I walked into Russell’s unit, which was the mirror image of my own but was less furnished. I found Russell standing over his two-range gas stove, stir-frying what looked to be thin strips of chicken and mixed vegetables in a dark sauce. “I made extra,” he said, turning to face me as he continued to stir. “There’s rice in the steamer.”

“Thanks,” I said, “I’ll take you up on that offer. My dinner plans have been dashed.”

“Your student cancelled again?” We all knew that each of us had some teaching on the side. We could trust one another to keep it within the walls of this building.

“Aye. Look, I think I have a couple of bottles of beer. Let me fetch them.”

“Sounds good. Dinner is about two minutes away.”

My fridge held two one-quart bottles of OB Lager, which I had picked up at the corner store between our apartment building and the main road. I grabbed both and returned as Russell was unfolding a small table. Two cushions were already in place where we would be sitting on the floor. His rice cooker was plugged in and resting on the floor next to where we would be dining. I went to one of his cupboards, where I knew he kept his dishes, and took out two bowls and two cups. We set the table and Russell took the pan off the stove, and placed it on a large cork coaster between the place settings.

“This looks good,” I said. Russell and I ended our Friday work day within an hour of each other, and both of us usually headed straight back to the apartments. A couple of weeks after we had settled in to our units, Russell, Cathy, Nelson, and I had purchased used motor scooters from a dealer near the baseball stadium. Faster than either hailing a taxi or waiting for a bus, we could zip between the apartment and the university. We also noticed that while on the scooters, with our helmets covering our heads, most people in traffic or on the sidewalks could not discern us from Koreans, and so we could travel around the city in relative anonymity, which made it easier to get to some of our private students. It cost less for a single tank of fuel than for a single ride in a taxi to just about anywhere, and because the four of us purchased three scooters, we were able to negotiate a good price. For less than one hundred American dollars, I had transportation and a helmet, with a visor, that both protected and hid my face. A purple motor scooter wasn’t my ideal colour but Cathy and Nelson wanted the blue scooter, and Russell had chosen a bright yellow one.

Russell opened the lid to his rice cooker and handed me a ladle. “Help yourself.”

I added a scoop of the jasmine rice and passed the utensil back. With a metal spoon, I added some of the chicken and vegetable bits to my bowl. “Smells amazing.” As Russell served himself, I opened a bottle of the lager and divided it between our cups. “Kombei,” I said, raising my glass.

“I think Ashley and Raymond are performing at TwoBeOne again tonight,” said Russell after a sip of the beer.

“They seem to perform there every other Friday,” I said. Having missed their first show at this foreigner-friendly bar, I vowed to never miss another performance. As soon as any lesson with Mr. Lee was finished, I would head straight to the bar that had now surpassed Urban Bar and SE, the first ex-pat bar I used to frequent, in popularity. Shin Hoon, Urban’s owner, tried to bring patrons back with live music but couldn’t generate the same level of energy that came from this dark basement establishment. Koreans and westerners alike would hit the stage, and a large dance floor directly in front brought the crowds to their feet. “Those lads are drawing quite the following.”

“I heard Ashley say that they had found a drummer who was going to join them.”

Waegukin?” Foreigner.

“Korean,” said Russell. “He said this guy is the brother of one of his students. He heard Ashley and Raymond perform a couple of weeks ago and asked to join them. They’ve been practicing every day this week.”

“That will make for a nice jazz trio.” As good as Ashley was on the piano and Raymond on guitar, they sounded like something was missing. Percussion was just what they needed. “Is everybody else going?”

“As far as I know, the Cathnelsons are in. Brian said that he and his wife might join us.”

“I’ve never met Brian’s wife.” Brian Rogers had moved to Chŏnju about ten years earlier and met his wife, a Korean, on a Christian retreat. They married within a year and Brian immersed himself in the culture, becoming fluent in the language and helping lead in his church community. Rarely did he socialize with the other teachers, so the promise of an appearance, his wife in tow, was welcome news.

“I think only Raymond and John have met her,” said Russell. John Peterson was also a long-time teacher at Jeonju University and was also married to a Korean woman, but that’s where the similarities ended. A vocal atheist, John took every opportunity to criticize the Korean culture. It was a wonder that he wanted to stay here.

“Hey, Cathy told me the other day that you finally withdrew from the Korean master’s programme. Congratulations.”

“Yes, thanks, I told Mr. Kim, on Monday, that I wanted to withdraw but he urged me to reconsider. I skipped my classes on Tuesday and on Wednesday I brought Chul-won with me to the registrar’s office, to help me formally withdraw. Thursday was the deadline for withdrawing and getting any sort of refund. I lost fifty-thousand won but that was nothing, compared to the two-million they wanted for this semester alone. I should have been smart like you, Roland, and withdrawn on Day One.”

“I never applied in the first place. It wasn’t a condition of my employment.”

“Nor mine, but I should have had some backbone and stood up to Mr. Kim after the first day.”

Kim Sun-ho was the dean of the Korean Cultural Studies department, the only one that offered a master’s degree to foreign students, though we learned after Russell’s first week that no foreign student had ever applied before. No educational institute outside of South Korea would even recognize the degree but the English department wanted to be able to brag that all of its teachers held, at minimum, a master’s degree. A bachelor’s degree wasn’t good enough, and Russell and I were the only teachers to not hold a master’s, let alone a PhD, as Brian and John held.

Mr. Kim had sat with the university head, Mr. Cho, during my interview, and had said that the university would hire me right away if I considered registering for this cultural studies program, to which I immediately answered, “I’m considering it right now.” Hands were shaken, forms were signed, and plans for a work visa were arranged.

As soon as I had my contract signed and the E-2 visa paperwork filed, I visited Mr. Kim in his office and told him that I had considered his degree program, but would respectfully decline. His face clearly revealed his disappointment but he respected my reasons and frankness. “I want to focus on my students, Kim Gyeosunim, and I cannot give them one-hundred percent of me if I’m also trying to give you my very best. And while the full programme is two years long, my contract is for only ten months. I cannot earn my master’s degree before I go home.”

“Have no fear,” he assured me, “if you would like to finish your degree, I’m sure that the university would extend your contract for as long as you would like.”

“But you see, Kim Gyeosunim, I agreed to a ten-month contract because I wish to return home next year.”

Mr. Kim bowed and we never spoke of the degree again. But to appease him, I agreed to take Hangul lessons from him, free of charge. Six weeks into it, my reading comprehension and conversational Korean were already much-improved.

Just the other week, I was walking down the crowded hall of our language building, on my way to a class, when I had to squeeze past some students. I came behind one of my own students, Yi Shin-hye, the one I stupidly called ‘beautiful’ on my first day, and said, “Shillyae-habnida.” Excuse me. Shin-hye turned around. Her eyes went wide and she let out a shriek before jumping out of the way. “I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to startle you,” I said.

“When I hear you, I think you are a Korean man. I not expect to see you. You sound just like Korean. Your accent is very good.”

Kamsa-habnida,” I said with a smile. Thank you, though I was sure I had Mr. Kim to thank.

I swallowed a mouthful of the OB Lager before I spoke. “The important thing, Russell, is that you’re no longer chained to this useless degree. Our interaction with Mr. Kim is minimal, at best. Don’t give it another thought.”

“I’ll drink to that.”

***

The real ToBeOne. Photo ©1998 Ross Brown. 
As expected, TwoBeOne was packed. Live Korean Rock music seeped out onto the street and drew us down into this basement establishment. And despite the standing-room-only space, Raymond always ensured that his fellow teachers had a large table, front and centre, with chairs for everyone. Lemon soju was being passed around the table but Russell and I weren’t worried. Though beer and this rice-fermented liquor, like Japanese saki, didn’t mix, he and I had only split one of the two bottles of OB Lager, and it was more than an hour since we had cleaned up after dinner. There were lots of people at the table: Cathy and Nelson, Raymond, Ashley and his girlfriend, Sarah, Brian and his wife, Hee-eun, the new drummer, Lee—just Lee, and his sister, Hae-song. With Russell and myself, we were an even dozen.

We were going to need more soju.

As Russell and I took our seats, the others had just recovered from a fit of laughter. I was sitting in the middle of the table, facing Ashley and Raymond, who had their backs to the stage. When it was time to perform, they would leave me with a clearer view of the stage.

“You just missed a great story,” said Nelson, who was to my left. “I still say it’s one of those urban legends that gets passed around us waeguks.” Nelson and Cathy were also taking Korean language lessons.

“People do crazy things, living here,” said Ashley, seemingly defending his story. “I believe it.”

Nelson began to summarize the story. “Some time, last year, some lady was driving her car along a sidewalk, but, like, at a really slow speed.”

“Slower than the pedestrians,” added Cathy.

“Well, there was some crazy Canadian who was on the sidewalk, walking toward the driver, and, like, he wasn’t going to move for her.”

“Let me guess,” I said, “he walked up onto her hood and right over her car.”

“So, you’ve heard this urban legend, too,” said Raymond.

“No,” I said, looking him straight in the eyes. “I was that crazy Canadian.”

“Get out!” laughed Cathy.

“No way!” cried Nelson.

“Are you serious, Roland?” asked a surprised Ashley.

“As serious as a car wreck.”

“Dude, I want to shake your hand!” Ashley stood up and offered his hand. “You’re my hero. So many of us have seen so much goofy shit by Korean drivers, and you stood up to one. Good for you.” He looked to the Koreans who were seated at our table. “No offense, folks, but none of you know how to drive. And this man is a living legend.”

“Man, that was some dangerous shit,” said Raymond. “What if she had hit the gas with you standing in front of her car or once you were on top of it?”

“It was a concern as she got right up to me but I had seen her approach others who went around her as she got close. My biggest worry was her hitting the accelerator while I was on the hood. I didn’t want to go into the wind screen. As soon as I was on the roof of the car, I knew that if she hit the gas, I’d stand a good chance of being able to jump clear.”

“I heard she screamed her brains out,” said Ashley.

“Aye, that she did.”

“I can’t believe it was you. I just can’t believe it. You’re a hero. If the table wasn’t in the way I’d hug you.”

“Thanks, Ashley. I didn’t give it much thought. I just did it.”

After shaking my hand, he sat back down. “I just can’t believe it. I’ve been telling folks this story for months.”

“Where did you hear it?”

“There’s a guy I met last year at SE, his name was something like Arizona or some other American state.”

“Nevada Rhodes,” I supplied.

“You know him?”

“Knew him,” I said. “I haven’t seen him in months. And I can guess where he got the story.” Nevada was a regular at both SE and Urban Bar, and at one time had been dating and living with one of the teachers at my old hagwon, Mike, who we aptly began calling Mike the Thief, because he was stealing money from his fellow teachers. He also stole a bunch of money from Nevada—money that had been collected from fellow teachers from around the Chŏnju area for a trip to Beijing. It was a trip that Tanya and I had also signed up for. The scandal of the stolen money and Mike’s attempt to throw Nevada out of the Dongsan-Dong apartment resulted in a fight that made Mike scramble back to the United States.

Mike was working at the hagwon when I walked over the car on the sidewalk, right in front of our office building. When I returned to the office, immediately afterward, I told Mike the Thief and Carrie, another teacher. Mike must have told Nevada and the rest became history.

Perhaps no longer an urban legend but now certainly not an urban myth.