Showing posts with label 1998. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1998. Show all posts

Thursday, September 19, 2024

Pain

I know pain.

I spent a lot of time on two problem feet. I've snapped a tibia in two and still tried to walk on it. I've had appendicitis. I've experienced many injuries in my lifetime.

But nothing—nothing—compares to my first massage.

I know. A massage is supposed to be relaxing. Sometimes, there can be a pressure spot that's uncomfortable but it shouldn't be agonizing. And certainly, not for the whole massage.

In 1998, DW and I visited Bangkok, Thailand, for a relaxing vacation away from our hectic lives in South Korea. I had just been abducted and I needed some rest and recuperation. We heard that Thailand was amazing, and so off we went.

We arrived in Bangkok at about lunchtime and headed to the historical district that contained the Grand Palace and several temples. Over the years, I've shared images of this area in other blog posts.

But there was another famous place that DW and I wanted to explore, given that I had recently experienced my abduction and needed to decompress. I needed a massage, thought DW, and what better place to get my stressed nerves and muscles worked out than the oldest massage school in Thailand, at Wat Pho.

Not far from the temple with the reclining Buddha was a building that housed several masseuses and clients—Thai and foreigners alike—in one big room. Both DW and I were assigned a masseuse, and through gestures, we showed them what they could touch and what they couldn't touch.

Because my feet were sensitive (my right foot had already had reconstructive surgery but my left foot was still decades away from treatment, and both feet had acute osteoarthritis) I made it clear that they were to be left alone.

I mean, I pointed to both feet and shook my head in a definitive 'no.'

I was kneaded like dough for a loaf of bread. I was bent into positions where I thought my bones would snap. I was pummeled. I was compressed. I was made to feel that I wished I was dead.

The masseuse totally disregarded my warning about my feet, even when I screamed out "NO!" as they were bent so much that I thought she was trying to make my toes touch my heels.

I literally cried and fought to breathe at times.

This torture went on for a half an hour but it seemed like hours.

When she was done, she let me lie still for about five minutes before helping me to my feet. I had been lying on a mat on the floor, which had made it easy for her to walk on my back.

Once on my feet, I felt... amazing. There were no knots in my muscles that I could feel. I felt as light as the wind, was almost worried that I could float away.

DW also said that she was twisted into a pretzel and pummeled, but she too felt wonderful after it was all over.

And the massage only cost us about the equivalent of five dollars, Canadian.

I almost wanted to go through it again but we had things to do, places to see. After all, it was only the first afternoon of our vacation.

DW took the following photo of me after the massage. The red is not from a sunburn: both of us glowed after the massage.


It was, indeed, the most pain I had ever experienced, but I have no regrets. In fact, when we reached our island resort on Ko Pha-ngan, I had a second massage right on the beach. It wasn't nearly as painful as the first massage, thankfully, but was just as effective.

Happy Thursday!

Thursday, September 5, 2024

Remembering a Seoul Portrait

I'm getting to that age where I'm becoming forgetful.

My short-term memory has been terrible for the last few years: if I don't write something down or add it to my smartphone, I'll forget it. I've always been proud of my long-term memory and how I could recall minute details of something from decades ago or even in my childhood, but even that's starting to get a bit foggy.

I've written close to 3,000 blog posts on The Brown Knowser (or will have, by the end of this month) and sometimes, I forget if I've written about something in the past 13 years of this blog. In fact, several times over the years, I've written a post, scheduled it to be published, only to later remember that I had already written about that particular subject in the past.

Once, I even had to pull down a published post because I learned, after it was up for everyone to read, that I had written a nearly identical post years earlier. I had to pull down the newer post after it had already been viewed dozens of times.

Oops.

(I'm not counting the various Christmas—and now Easter—posts that I repeat, on purpose, annually.)

As I was putting posts together for this week, I came across an old photo from when DW and I lived in South Korea. It was just after Christmas, 1998, and we were visiting friends in Seoul. One of our pocket 35mm cameras had stopped working and we wanted to replace it. A Korean friend told us of a shopping district in the capital city, where we could find good deals on electronics and cameras, and we sought it out.

We found a Pentax point-and-shoot for a very good price and snapped it up. The shop even threw in batteries and a roll of film, and they made sure that the camera was good to go as we left the store.

DW wanted to take a picture right away, so as soon as we stepped out of the store and onto the sidewalk, she captured this image of me.

Recognize this jacket? I wore it this past Monday as I de-weeded my back garden.

Returning to this week, I remembered the picture and thought I could share it for Throwback Thursday. Only, I was sure that I had shared this photo in an earlier Throwback Thursday post.

I tried to remember the post by clicking on the keywords on the right-hand margin: selfies, South Korea, Seoul, Throwback Thursday, remembering. None of these keywords brought results (and it took a long time to scroll through all of the posts with these keywords!).

I don't mind occasionally reusing photos in various posts but I never wish to unintentionally repeat a blog post itself (or, retell the same story). The day that happens, it's time to shut down this blog.

So, this photo was of me, in late 1998, in Seoul, South Korea, outside an electronic shop in Namdaemun Market. The first photo from our Pentax 35mm point-and-shoot camera.

I haven't forgotten those details (especially, since the date is printed on the photo). And while I have shared a cropped version of this photo on various social-media sites, it appears that I've never shared the full-sized photo before today.

Happy Thursday!

Thursday, July 18, 2024

The Amazing Shirt

It's probably the oldest shirt that I own. And I'm amazed that I can still fit into it.

In 1998, DW and I took a vacation to Thailand. We were teaching English in South Korea, and after my abduction, we felt that we needed a getaway. I was able to convince my administrators at Jeonju University that I needed more than the one week that my contract allowed, and my fellow English teachers agreed that they could fill in for my classes for the extra days.

We had a great time, visiting Bangkok, Krabi, in the southwest coast of the country, and the small island of Ko Pha-ngan, in the Gulf of Thailand, which wasn't nearly as developed as it is today; especially, on its northern shores.

I'll never forget our tiny hut, just a dozen steps from the beach, and the restaurant of the Star Huts, which was half as far and had a 24-page menu. Ah, to turn back time.

I saw the t-shirt in a touristy part of Bangkok, and even though the cotton was thick and the shirt a bit big for my then-small frame, I wanted it. The black shirt had colourful lettering, with a stylized eye at the top, and read Amazing Thailand 1998-1999.

It's a bit faded, and covered in cat hair.

I bought it but didn't wear it during the day, as the temperatures were too hot for the fabric. Instead, in the cool evenings, I wore it on the beach in Ko Pha-ngan.

Before DW and I returned home, to Canada, in March 1999, we returned to Thailand one more time. This time, we arrived from the south, in Malaysia, when we took a bus from Penang to Krabi.

We revisited Krabi and then made our way to the island of Ko Lanta, but after a couple of days on a muddy and rocky beach, we decided to return to Ko Pha-ngan and Star Huts (we even got our old hut from the year before).

Of course, I travelled with my Amazing Thailand t-shirt and wore it more often when we reached Chiang Mai, where the coolness of the mountains made me want to wear a thicker shirt.

When we returned to Canada, spring hadn't quite arrived, and I was thankful for this thick, cotton t-shirt. It was also a bit of a bragging piece of clothing, as some people, who saw me wear the shirt, would ask me if I had actually gone to Thailand.

"Yes," would be my smiling response. "Twice, actually."

As the t-shirt showed, I had been there in 1998 and 1999.

I went through a period when I didn't wear printed t-shirts. I liked solid colours with nothing on them. And I also didn't wear t-shirts without a buttoned shirt over top: especially, when heading out of the house. And so, my Thailand shirt would move to the back of my t-shirt drawer, only making an appearance as a sleep shirt or when I did chores around the house.

Over the years, I started wearing shirts with brewery labels on them, and I even bought three printed shirts from last year's Spamalot musical in Stratford. Having returned to wearing printed shirts, I dug to the back of my t-shirt drawer and retrieved my Thailand shirt, thinking that I had outgrown it and wouldn't fit into it. Perhaps one of my kids would want it as a sleep shirt, much like Kid 2 had taken over my Great Wall of China shirt many years ago.

But it fit, much to my surprise, even though it was large on me when I had first purchased it.

If I wear it out of the house and anyone asks me if I've been to Thailand, I'll have an answer at the ready.

"Yes, twice, in both 1998 and 1999."

Someday, perhaps, I'll go back.


Happy Thursday!

Thursday, September 2, 2021

Standing on Guard

I still wear a black t-shirt that I bought in 1998. Having bought it in a hot country, I've always been surprised at how thick the cotton on it is. The collar is still intact and there are no holes, and the print is only slightly faded, though still bright.

It reads "Amazing Thailand, 1998-1999."

Indeed, Thailand is amazing. DW and I visited twice, in 1998 and 1999. Highlights included Chiang Mai, in the north, Phuket and Ko Lanta, in the southwest, and Ko Pha Ngan, in the southeast.

And, of course, there's Bangkok.

The capital city was only starting its growth as a modern city, with huge skyscrapers beginning to stretch upward throughout the vast sprawl of low-rise buildings. The population, a staggering 6.27 million, was less than two-thirds of what it is today, and everywhere we went, we were faced by a crush of citizens.

We were eager to leave the city for the smaller towns and islands, away from the crowds. But while we were in Bangkok, we visited many of its temples, museums, and of course, the palace.

Dress codes were in effect at the palace. Shorts were prohibited, as were short skirts. Because of the heat, DW and I packed mostly shorts, though I did have one pair of black denim jeans and DW had a sarong that she could wrap around her shorts and cover her legs. These articles of clothing seemed to pacify the guards at the front gates and we were allowed in.

It wasn't until we saw the changing of the guard at the front of the main palace that I realized I was dressed in the same colours (or lack of colour) as the guards: 

Black pants. White top.


All I was missing were the black shoes, helmet, and the matching rifle. That's okay: he wore it better.

Happy Thursday!

Friday, August 13, 2021

Friday Fiction: Crash

© Ross Brown
The following is a (very) rough-draft excerpt from my upcoming novel, Gyeosunim, the sequel to Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary. Be warned that there are spoilers and you may be missing some context.


Thursday, July 16, 1998

The heat and humidity of the summer morning was already making my shirt stick to my moist skin, and the breeze that was created by my scooter, racing along the narrow, two-lane road that took me from Jeonju University campus to Hyoja-Dong, crossing through wet rice fields, did nothing to cool me. The hot blast of air was like a furnace inside a volcano.

The only thing I could do to feel fresh, for a short while, anyway, was to return to my apartment and shower during breaks. A fresh change into dry clothes was a must in this weather.

The university dictated that male teachers wear a suit, but my three suits—one, that I brought with me, from Canada; the other two were purchased in Pyeongtaek, last autumn, with Brad—were made of a wool that didn’t breathe, and I would not be able to survive, outdoors, in them. On the days that I wore them, I would have to go straight from my apartment to an air-conditioned taxi, and straight indoors at the university, where fans and concrete only barely kept us cool enough to not overheat. Mercifully, an air-conditioning unit had been installed in the teachers’ office, and my colleagues and I spent as much time at our desks as time would allow. But by mid-morning, my undershirt and dress shirt would be soaked in sweat and I would need to change them, at the very least.

Summers in South Korea were not made for business attire.

When the warmer weather first appeared, I noticed that Choi Chul-won wore a lighter material for his traditional hanbok, and was allowed to teach while wearing his outfits, rather than a traditional Western suit.

“Mr. Choi, where do you get your hanbok?” I asked on a day where the heat was especially bad. “Would a Korean be offended if a waegook was dressed in hanbok?”

Chul-won smiled. “You would want to wear hanbok to teach?”

“Why not? It looks good on you. It certainly looks cooler.” Indeed, the baggy trousers and loose-fitting coat seemed to keep further away from skin than a dress shirt and trousers, and Chul-won wore a simple white t-shirt under the coat. On his feet, he wore breathable sandals and no socks. He never seemed to break a sweat.

“Mmm, I don’t think anyone would be offended to see you in hanbok. Maybe they would feel honoured that you would want to be like a Korean.”

“Would you be willing to accompany me to your tailor and help me select an appropriate outfit?”

“Yes,” said Chul-won. “You would need someone to translate. We could go this afternoon, if you like.”

I had purchased two outfits: one, a light-beige weave for the pants and a silky, dusty-rose coat; the other, a matching, smokey-grey with orange piping around the collar and trim. Chul-won showed me the proper way to wrap the oversized trousers around my waist and how to tie them securely. The same with the bottoms of the legs, which went just above my ankles. The sandals that I brought from Canada were a mix of brown leather and a black polypropylene-spandex fabric, and according to Chul-won were suitable with both hanbok outfits. I purchased a light-grey t-shirt to wear under the darker suit.

My other colleagues marvelled at my new wardrobe. With my Korean haircut and the tan that I had developed over the past few months, Cathy said that I could almost pass for a Korean, myself. On my scooter, with the face shield on my helmet pulled down, anybody who saw me would think I was a Korean, and that suited me fine. Hidden, in plain sight.

And so I made my way, between classes, back to my apartment for a cool shower and fresh undergarments. I might even go around the corner, to the video-rental shop, and pick something to watch, passing the time with a fan and cold Pocari Sweat, which I kept stocked in my refrigerator, to keep me cool.

One of the green city buses was also making its way toward Hyoja-Dong, ahead of me. I slowed as it pulled away from one of its stops, and I could smell the exhaust and feel its heat wash over me, adding to the already unbearable air. I gave it some distance so that the fumes that it emitted wouldn’t choke me.

I was looking forward to the weekend. It had been nearly a month since I was last in Seoul to see my friend, Naomi. We were going to visit Namsan Park and go up the landmark tower, something that she and I had promised to do last fall, but didn’t. My relationship with Tanya meant that the two of us would spend most weekends exploring the countryside, away from Seoul. On the weekends that we did visit my friend, we were content to stay in her large, luxurious home, and view Namsan Tower from her U.N. Village balcony.

The bus made another stop where the road to Hyoja-Dong bent slightly to the right. Again, I slowed to keep my distance. But no sooner had it started rolling again that it quickly pulled back onto the shoulder. No longer wanting to be behind it, I twisted hard on the throttle to get around the massive vehicle.

She came without a warning. The driver of the bus must have opened the front door before coming to a full stop and the passenger must have jumped off and run around the front as soon as she could. She ran into my path just as I reached the driver’s side window. There was nothing I could do to stop in time.

I swerved as I clipped the woman who ran out from the front of the bus, knocking her to the pavement. The front wheel of my scooter objected to my sudden turn, at speed, and flipped me off the seat and over the handlebars. I placed one hand out to stop my head from slamming into the roadway but it gave out under the weight of the rest of me, and I went face-first onto the ground.

The face shield on my helmet saved me from serious damage. My wrist was throbbing as I rolled onto my back and managed to sit up. I could barely see through the scrapes across the face shield but a quick assessment showed that beyond a scuffed hanbok and a bloody lower palm, there was nothing broken. On my scooter, one side-view mirror was shattered and I imagined that the side that was now on the pavement was scraped, but that was it.

I looked over to the woman that I had hit, and she was sitting on the road, obviously shaken. I could see that her left ankle was bleeding but she was paying no attention to it. The driver of the bus had stepped out of his vehicle and was taking in the situation.

I pulled myself onto my feet and could feel my legs shaking. I walked over to the woman, who couldn’t see my face because of my helmet and now opaque face shield. “Mian habnida,” I said, “gwaenchan-eyo?” I’m sorry, are you okay?

Her voice came in a cry and she spoke too quickly for me to understand anything. She was middle-aged, in her late forties to early fifties, and had the weathered complexion of someone who had spent a lot of time outdoors. Her shoulder-length hair was curled, much like so many ajummas—ladies of her generation—were wearing. Her light, floral-patterned dress was now soiled from the dried dirt that had blown from the farm fields and onto the road.

I removed the knapsack that was strapped onto my back and rummaged through a small pouch to retrieve the only thing I had that could help, a packet that contained a wet nap that I had from the many I had collected from restaurants over the months. I tore it open and cleaned her wound. The nick was small but deep, and would require a couple of stitches. The bus driver, with a small first aid kit, was able to supply a bandage to cover the cut.

Both were speaking to me in rapid Hangul, and when I lifted my visor to better see them, they both let out a gasp as they realized that they weren’t dealing with a fellow Korean. “Mian heyo,” I said, “Hangul-mal chokum heyo.” Sorry, I only speak a little Korean.

The driver and I helped to lift the woman onto her feet, and she was able to put some weight on her injured leg, but the pain on her face was clear. The driver spoke to her and I recognized the word for hospital, byeong-won, and surmised that he was either telling her that she needed to go to the hospital or that he would take her to one, or both. I knew that there were several health clinics in Hyoja-Dong that could treat her wound, and that one of the Chŏnju Hospital was not very far away, along his route, though it would take longer to reach with the bus meandering various streets along the way. We led the woman back onto the bus and placed her in a seat close to the driver. Reaching into my knapsack again, I produced a pen and a business card for Jeonju University’s English Language Department. I circled a number that rang on Chul-won’s desk and wrote my name on the back of the card.

Nae samushil,” I said. My office. I made a hand gesture to represent holding a phone handset to my head and the woman nodded. She understood to call me. I pointed to the card again, and to myself. “Sam shee.” For emphasis, I held up three fingers to indicate three o’clock.

Out the front windscreen of the bus, I could see a driver in the oncoming lane who had stopped his car and was moving my scooter to the side of the road so that he could get past. The bus driver looked at his watch and indicated that he also needed to get going. I apologized to the woman again, pointed to the card that she was holding, and said again the time in which she should call me.

Back on my scooter, with the bus pulled out ahead of me, I was tempted to follow them to see where the driver was taking the woman. But my lack of adequate Hangul meant that I wasn’t going to be able to provide any more help. Best that the woman get the care she needed, without me slowing her down, and let her contact Chul-won, when I was back in the office, and he could translate for me. Though I hadn’t planned on returning to the university until just before my four-o’clock lesson, I figured that I would arrive before three, when I could explain to Chul-won what had happened and leave enough time to sort out whatever call we received.

I looked at my clothes and saw that they’d have to be washed. My wrist, which was sore and had some pebbles embedded under the skin, was the only real damage to me. My visor had saved my face from a worse fate than a laceration to an ankle. And my scooter needed a new mirror and would have scars on the finish for the rest of its life. And though it was she who had run out into traffic, I felt somewhat responsible for the incident. I had gunned ahead to pass the bus, not being careful about what or who could dart out from the front of it. Still feeling shaken from the incident, I climbed back onto my vehicle, started it up, and carefully merged back onto the road.

I pulled into a scooter repair shop that wasn’t far from my apartment and a mechanic was able to quickly replace the mirror and check the scooter for any serious damage, though none was found. Though my visor took the brunt of the impact with the ground, I bought a new helmet, just to be on the safe side.

Back at the apartment, I showered, cleaned up my wrist, and changed into my second hanbok outfit. I steamed a half-dozen or so chicken and vegetable wontons, and tried to calm myself down from the ordeal. I was too distracted to want to go to the video shop and doubted that I’d be able to concentrate on a movie, anyway. Now that the initial reaction to the accident was behind me, my nerves were more on edge. It surprised me at how fast everything had happened and I couldn't help think about Dad, behind the wheel of his Land Rover, with Kristen in the passenger seat, next to him, and Laura Elizabeth, secured to her car seat, in the back.

At least, in my case, everyone involved was able to walk away, even if one person was limping.

Friday, October 30, 2020

Friday Fiction: First Day

The following is a draft excerpt from my novel, Gyeosunim. If you haven't read my previous novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, be warned that there are spoilers in this post.


Wednesday, March 4, 1998

Raymond and Ashley had filled in for me over my two-day absence, though they admitted that there wasn’t much for them to do. It took almost all of the time to take attendance and then explain that they weren’t my students’ teachers. They practiced some exercises at the beginning of the students’ exercise books, which were, to my disappointment, the Side by Side books that I had fought to replace at the hagwon. Lots of repetition, lots of narrow fill-in-the-blank responses, and little room for expansion. When I was promoted at the hagwon to lead the other teachers, and with the help of Tanya, we procured better books that drew in our students’ interests.

There was little chance that I could persuade the university to update its choice of books.

Raymond and Ashley also had assigned a seating order to the students that corresponded to the attendance list. They said it was easier to keep track of the students and to also force them to pay attention, rather than sitting beside friends and becoming distracted.

My first class was a short walk down the hall from my office and faced south, letting so much sunshine come through the windows that the overhead lights were not necessary. The students were seated in rows at tables that accommodated five students each. An aisle ran down the centre of the room. A Plexiglas partition separated each student and I could see headphone jacks and volume controls built into the surface in front of each seat. This room was used for listening to languages but we wouldn’t be using any equipment in this course.

My desk, at the head of the room, was situated on a stage that was about a foot above the floor, giving me a clear view of everyone.

Annyong-haseyo,” I said as I entered the room and stepped onto the stage, for which I received a round of oohs and ahs.

One student, a young man in a white button-up shirt and grey slacks, stood up and said, “Teacher, Hangul excellent,” and several other students echoed, “excellent.”

Gomap-subnida,” I said, just to stir them up further. I knew that over the past year, my pronunciation was getting better. Some of my private students would help me sharpen my tongue during some breaks of me teaching them English.

I took off my jacket and set it over the chair at my desk. I then walked to the blackboard, picked up a piece of chalk, and wrote my name in large letters. “My name is Roland Axam. You can call me ‘Roland’ or ‘Songsaengnim.’”

Gyeosunim,” said a young woman in the front row, though she said it timidly and as soon as I looked at her, she put her hands over her face. Her yellow t-shirt was emblazoned with Mademoiselle S. Tomboy.

“I’m sorry, what was that?”

The timid woman lowered her head but the student who had praised my pronunciation stood again and spoke up. “She said ‘Gyeosunim,’ not Songsaengnim. You are professor.”

Gyeosunim means professor?”

“Yes.” The student sat down.

“Okay, thank you. Please call me Gyeosunim Roland.” I received a round of giggles from the whole class, and I joined them. It seemed to make them more comfortable at seeing me smile. “Let’s continue,” I said, trying to bring the room back in control. I wanted to let them know that I could smile but that I was also serious about teaching them. “My name is Roland and I am 34 years old.” My birthday was tomorrow, but close enough. “I was born in Scotland but I live in Canada. I have one sister but no brothers.” To illustrate what I said, I wrote ‘34’ beside my name on the blackboard. Underneath, I wrote ‘Scotland,’ drew an arrow, next to which I wrote ‘Canada.’ Under this, I wrote ‘sister = 1’ and ‘brother = 0.’

“I know all of you live in Chŏnju, yes?” I received resounding nods from the room. “I want you to tell me your names, how old you are, and if you have any brothers or sisters, okay?” I picked up the attendance list and pointed to the first student, who stood up to be heard over the Plexiglas.

“I am Bak Hae-sung,” she said, “I am nineteen years old. I have one brother and one sister.” She sat down and I marked her on my list. I then pointed to the student next to her. She looked identical to Hae-sung and I immediately recognized her as a twin. I had never seen twin Koreans before.

“I am Bak Su-hee. I am nineteen years old. I have one sister and one brother.”

“Surprise surprise,” I said, placing a check mark next to her name. We went through the whole list and I was impressed with the clear pronunciation of each student. Ashley had told me that some of my students were in the English programme and were very keen, and I realized that this was one of those classes. When every student had introduced themselves, we still had about fifteen minutes left, so I picked up my copy of the Side by Side book and asked the class which page they had last looked at. Again, it was my eager student, who I now knew as Kim Jung-eun, who spoke up.

Gyeosunim Lolan-duh, we only practiced pages 1 and 2. We are ready for page 3.”

“Thank you, Mr. Kim,” I said, consulting the attendance list, “Can I call you Jung-eun?”

“Yes, please. Thank you.” He sat back down.

I turned to page 3 and saw it was an exercise in adjectives. I quickly deemed that this exercise was too easy for this class, but most of my classes were using this book—no doubt, following the same exercise at the same time. I had the feeling that the book was chosen to challenge some of my students, but clearly it was not going to be a challenge for this class. It would be up to me to provide the challenge by deviating from the book or by calling on the students to provide examples outside of what was printed in the book.

The adjectives on the page were accompanied by illustrations, to which the students had to apply the correct adjective. The first example showed two vehicles: a small red car and a large blue truck. The prompts read The car is _____ and ___. The truck is _____ and ____.

Disappointing.

I called on one of the students at the back of the room. He answered without hesitation. “The car is small and red. The truck is large and blue.”

“Excellent,” I said.

I saw the next example. It depicted an aged woman and a young woman. I looked around the room and I spied a beautiful young woman staring at me. I noted her location and then found her name on the attendance record. “Yi Shin-hye, can you read the next one, please?”

She smiled and stood up. She was wearing a floral-patterned dress that complemented her slim, curved figure. The dress was cut above the knees. It was then that I noticed that the young woman in the illustration was similarly dressed. Not identically, of course, but the patterned dress was also short, revealing slim, shapely legs. Like Shin-hye, the woman had long brown hair.

“The woman is old and ugly,” said Shin-hye, “the girl is young and pretty.”

“Look,” I said, “that girl is you.” The other students saw the similarity and began to laugh.

Shin-hye blushed. “Do you think I’m pretty?”

“Of course,” I said, “you’re beautiful.” More laughter came from the other students, but Shin-hye just stared at me, smiled, and sat back down. I immediately regretted my words. I didn’t want to appear to play favourites and I certainly didn’t want to seem like the creepy old teacher, hitting on his students. I quickly moved on to the next example and another student. I didn’t want to look over to Shin-hye. I could see, in my peripheral view, that she was still looking at me.

***

I had six classes each day. Two of my classes were with advanced students and we went through the exercises in the Side by Side book easily. I did not make the same mistake of choosing a pretty young woman to use those adjectives; instead, I chose a male student to work through that example. Two of my other classes held students of average to slightly below-average English abilities. One of my classes—the last class of the day—included students of a widely mixed level of proficiency. These were students that were taking night classes because they either held day jobs, had failed this course before and had to pass it in order to graduate, or were here simply for interest. Some of these students wanted to be in this class, and paid attention: others didn’t want to be here but had no choice. I found myself battling some to keep off their mobile phones and others from talking to one another, rather than focusing on the lesson.

One of my favourite classes, held late in the afternoon, before dinner, and in the third floor of the library building was an adult class that used a different book, one with which I was familiar: Let’s Talk. It was the same book that I had used in my early morning class at the hagwon. Together, we would read an article that covered a controversial topic, such as trades versus professions, or about capital punishment, or mixed marriages. The class comprised older students and adults and was an ungraded class. No attendance was required, other than to determine that the student was registered for the course, and there would be no exams. An added treat was that a student from my old hagwon, Pak Jae-hyun, was in this class. When we saw each other, we greeted one another like old friends, even though, as a previous student, we had kept our relationship at the hagwon professional.

“I’m sorry about what happened at the hagwon,” said Jae-hyun.

“Me too,” I said, “The drop in the value of the won hurt a lot of businesses.” This became our topic of discussion for the first class: how the economic collapse had affected the students. One of my adult students, Choi Ji-woo, lost her job at the Core Department Store. I learned that the store was closing. Already, the Pizza Hut on the top floor had pulled out.

“I’m sorry about your job loss,” I said. “Are you looking for another job?”

“No,” said Ji-woo, “my husband says I should stay home. He has a good job.”

“What does he do?”

“He’s a doctor. He has a clinic near Chŏnju yuk.”

“You mean the train station,” I said, trying to keep the conversation in English only. I thought of the private student that I would soon be taking over from Jamie. His student was a doctor and owned a clinic across the street from the speed-skating arena, just a few blocks from my apartment. The four-story building held a pharmacy on the first floor, doctor’s offices and small surgery rooms on the second and third floors, and a lavash apartment on the top floor. It was convenient and wouldn’t draw attention as I entered from the pharmacy and made my way to the stairs at the back. Standing and waiting for the elevator would draw onlookers to the foreigner: I would only take the elevator down from the apartment. It also took a special key to gain elevator access to the fourth floor, so taking the stairs up avoided me carrying anything that could tie me to the doctor and his family.

The first day went quickly but by the end, I was exhausted. It was only 8:00 but all I wanted to do, after locking up the office, was to get back to the apartment. There was a bus, just outside the university campus, that would get me to my new neighbourhood within half an hour but I didn’t want to wait for one to come. Instead, I hailed a taxi and was in my unit within ten minutes.

In my apartment and changed into jeans and a t-shirt, I felt more like myself. A suit was mandatory attire for teachers but I found that, even with my custom-tailored suits, the ones that Brad and I had had made a few months ago, I felt too stuffy. Even in March, where the temperature still dipped to single digits on the Celsius scale.

I grabbed a bottle of Hite from my refrigerator and sat on my yo, which was folded like a frameless sofa. The room was too big for my scant furniture, even when I unfolded the yo for bed. I had a small table that had folding legs, which was leaning against the far wall, next to my makeshift music stand. I would have to buy a TV, I told myself. It was the best way to improve my Korean. I took a swig of my beer and surveyed the rest of the apartment, determining what else I needed.

A washing machine, for one, could fit on my balcony. In fact, both Ashley and Raymond had their own washers and the balconies were rigged with hot and cold water faucets. There was a communal washer on the top floor, but it was old and seemed to always be running with other tenants' laundry. I would have to make a trip to Nambu Market on the weekend.

“You’ll have this place looking like home in no time.” The voice belonged to Kristen. She was sitting on the opposite end of the yo.

“This apartment will never be home,” I said. “Korea will never be home.”

“Home is where you make it, my love.”

“Home was with you and Laura Elizabeth. I haven’t had a home in years.”

Kristen rose from the yo and made her way to where the framed photos of her and our daughter stood. The small stoppered vial of their ashes, resting on its side, lay in front of the photos. “We’re here,” she said.

“And here,” I said, placing my hand on my heart. “Why do I only see you? Why do I not see Laura or Da’?”

“You see Laura Elizabeth in me. Though you don’t see her the same way. But think about it: when you talk to me, do you not also feel our daughter’s presence?”

“I do,” I admitted, though what I wouldn't give to have come back to the apartment, opened the door, and heard the pitter-patter of little feet and the gleeful cheer of ‘Daddy’s home, Daddy’s home!’ “And what about Dad?”

“You might not see him, but you hear him every time you make a decision for which your father had advice. Iain’s lessons are what make you who you are, Roland.”

She was right. They were all there with me, even though I could only visualize Kristen.

The sound of soft guitar drifted in from somewhere the hallway. The small window near my kitchenette was open, as was the balcony door, allowing for a cool crossbreeze. Someone in one of the other units was playing the guitar. I didn’t recognize the tune but it was relaxing.

“Why don’t you go and see who that is,” said Kristen, still crouched by the photographs.

“I’d rather stay here with you.”

“I’ll be there, too. Remember, I’m not really here. I’m wherever you are and are thinking of me.”

I got up from the yo and went to the door. I opened it and peered out to the hall. The sound was coming from Russell’s unit. His kitchen window was also slightly open. He stopped playing and I could hear him speak, a woman’s voice joining him in conversation. Quietly, I closed my door and returned to the yo, where Kristen was now sitting.

“He has company,” I explained. “I’ll visit him another time.” I finished my beer and lay across the yo, resting my head in Kristen’s lap. I swore that I could feel her tender fingers running through my hair as I drifted off to sleep.

Thursday, February 28, 2019

Throwback Thursday: Life of the Party

I didn't have to buy a drink all evening.

Koreans don't typically celebrate Hallowe'en. At least, they didn't in 1998. If a Korean did celebrate this very western holiday, they did it with foreigners like me.

When DW and I celebrated Hallowe'en in 1997, with our hagwon (teaching institute) students, we made masks with the kids that we taught. We didn't extend our celebrations to our adult classes: in fact, it was my adult students who admitted that this holiday was purely western.

Because October 31, 1997, fell on a Friday, the ex-pats celebrated by dressing up when we met at our regular hangout, Urban Bar. While I wrote about this establishment for "social intercourse," as the owner called it, in Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, I didn't write about Hallowe'en in my novel. I don't even remember if DW or I dressed up at all.

I have a photo that I shot of our ex-pat friends: one was dressed as the devil; another, an angel. One was a vampire; another, a zombie. Our good friend, Brad, dressed as Groucho Marx: he was very convincing with his big eyebrows, mustache, glasses, and cigar.

Yes, Hallowe'en 1997 was a non-event for me and DW: 1998 was very different.

Our dear friend, Tamara, who lived in Seoul, came down to visit DW and me, and was really into celebrating the hallowed evening with our friends. DW and I were living in the new apartment that my university had provided, where our floor was occupied by other teachers.

DW and my Korean friend, Kyung-hee, was back from Australia and decided to join us as well, though she decided against dressing up.

DW was dressed as a lumberjack, with a checked shirt, blue jeans, and a toque. She used an eye liner to draw stubble on her face and curly hairs on her chest. She even fashioned an axe out of paper and tin foil. Tamara was a bumble bee (I think—it was a long time ago and my friend doesn't even remember anymore).

I had lost a lot of weight while living in Korea, and could actually fit into one of DW's tiny dresses. She had bought one in Thailand: it was sleeveless and was cut well above the knees. I wasn't as curvy as she was, but I could wear it and still breathe.

Kyung-hee did my makeup. Quite heavily. A lot of foundation, bright eye shadow, deep-red lipstick. My hair was slicked back, flowery barrettes clipped in. I squeezed into a pair of tights that made my hairy legs look hairier. A bra, stuffed with rolled-up socks, gave me boobs to rival DW's, which were, tonight, flattened down to look more butch.

I looked hideous. Deliciously hideous.

I wore a necklace and carried an empty sparkling wine bottle. I didn't strain my voice to sound like a woman. In fact, I dropped my voice a little and adopted an Austrian accent, almost like Arnold Schwarzenegger. I told everyone that I was on the Austrian women's swim team.

The hardest part for us was to hail a taxi to get us down to the national university district. No one wanted to pick up a bunch of freaks. Our first stop was to our current haunt, TwoBeOne, a basement ex-pat bar with a stage for live music. Lots of ex-pats performed here, including yours truly, but tonight we were there to celebrate Hallowe'en and support our friend, Russ, who was performing with a Korean woman and another westerner.

Everyone was dressed up and there were, to our surprise, lots of Koreans in attendance.

As soon as I sat at a table with my friends, a young Korean man approached our table and started talking to me. I stuck with my role and explained I was an athlete who had just celebrated a victory at a Seoul swim meet. He asked if he could join our table, and no one objected.

He ordered a pitcher of beer and filled my glass. And refilled it. And refilled it some more. We didn't chat about anything memorable, but I do remember with clarity that he spoke to me, not as a man dressed as a woman but as a woman. It was surreal.

He invited me to join him on the dance floor, in front of the band, and I accepted. I poured some of the beer into my sparkling wine bottle, and brought it onto the dance floor.

The floor was packed, but that didn't stop one of my fellow teachers, Steve, from taking my camera, which DW had been safeguarding, diving onto the dance floor, sliding under me, and shooting straight up.

I should have worn black underwear.


After Russ' set, a few of us decided to wander the streets, in costume, in search of another venue. I thanked the man who bought my drinks and left him behind. By this time, I was feeling no pain (that would come, tomorrow). We found a bar that had big windows at street level. There seemed to be no foreigners in it but that didn't stop us.

No sooner had we found a couple of tables, next to each other, when two young Korean men came to us, wondering what was going on. One of these men invited me to join him and his friends at their table.

I looked to the table and saw that two women were at the table. I nodded to DW, who told me to have fun, and I joined my new friends.

More drinks were ordered. More talk about who I was (my Austrian counterpart). I hoped to make the Austrian Olympic team in 2000, in Sydney. Though these people knew nothing about me, they assured me that I'd make the team.

A song came over the sound system and the Koreans invited me onto the floor. Who was I to say no to my benefactors of spirits? All five of us joined the dance floor, and I noticed that DW, Tamara, Kyung-hee, and our other friends were closeby.

DW asked me if I was all right. "So long as one of the guys doesn't make a pass at me, I'm good."

When a slow song followed, one of the Korean women asked me to dance and I accepted. She was petite, even compared with me, and I had to stoop so that she could get her arms around me.

Her English was minimal, but she explained, speaking closely to my ear, that she was on a blind date and that she wasn't enjoying herself, that she didn't care for her date. She asked me if I could help her get out of it.

I said I could. I explained to her that when the slow song was over, she and I would go over to the table where DW and our gang sat. I would put her in one of the chairs. My friends would look out for her.

When the song ended, I made to stand up straight, but the woman still clung onto me, her arms firmly wrapped around my neck. I continued to stand and lifted her off her feet. I put my arms around her, so as to not support her with my neck and shoulders, and carried her to the table. I placed her in a vacant chair, told DW to keep her safe, and I rejoined the other three Koreans at their table.

Her date didn't seem to care that I had replaced the woman, and he continued to fill my glass. With him distracted, DW and my friends escorted the young woman out of the bar and safely into a taxi.

The rest of us stayed until the bar closed. Compared to the woman, I was not a cheap date. I held a lot more alcohol.

So, what do you think? Should I elaborate on this Hallowe'en tale in my sequel? It was certainly a night worth remembering.


Thursday, May 31, 2018

Throwback Thursday: Leisure Shirt

I still have this shirt. I still wear it.

When I put it on, it usually sends the message to all who see me sporting it that I'm relaxing, taking it easy.

Don't ask any work of me.

I bought the shirt in 1998, on the island of Pha Ngan, in the Gulf of Thailand. It was the first purchase when our long boat reached the southwest village of the same name. I held the shirt against my chest and told DW, "This is my perfect island-retreat shirt. When I wear it, it means 'I'm on vacation: leave me alone.'" With it, and a pair of swim trunks, and a cap from an Ontario winery, it was the perfect outfit for being a beach bum.



Our hut, on the north end of the island, was literally 20 steps from the water, right on the beach. The Star Hut restaurant, less than a dozen steps. I could wake up, step over to the patio, eat breakfast, and then wade into the surf in fewer than 40 steps.


DW took this photo of me from outside our hut.
Standing in the same spot, I took this photo of DW. That's how close we were to the beach.
I did that every day.

Now, I put that shirt on when the summer sun bakes our back yard. When my chores are done and I need to change out of a sweat-soaked shirt, I grab this memento from Thailand, grab a cold beer, and find a shaded area in which to sit.

And do nothing.

Happy Thursday!

Thursday, March 8, 2018

Throwback Thursday: Snorkeling in Thailand

When I pulled off my mask, I didn't expect anyone to scream out in horror.

"I'm not a monster... this is how I was born," I was tempted to say.

I felt the warm liquid running down my face, and I wiped it away, dismissively. It was only when DW pointed to the puddle of blood, on the deck of the boat, under me, that I paused. I had no idea how the mess got there.

"When you took your mask off," DW explained, "a fountain of blood shot out of your nose."

I had felt nothing.

We had been snorkeling off Krabi, near Chicken Island, named after the shape of the skyrocketing limestone, like a neck, and a bulb on top, like a head with a beak. At one point, I had been following a group of rainbow fish, my flippers propelling me lower, to maybe three or four metres, and I remember feeling my ears pop from the pressure, but it was no worse than what I've experienced high above the clouds, in an airplane.

The suction of my mask was strong, but to me, that was good. No seawater seeped inside, stinging my eyes. But when I pulled it off my face, the pressure was released and the blood shot out in one violent burst.

One tablespoon: maybe two.

Enough to make a stranger shriek.

This photo was from that day, after I washed away the blood, after we moved away from Chicken Island and on to where we pulled onto another island, for lunch.


No further blood was shed on that trip.
 

Monday, January 8, 2018

Remembering the Ice Storm

When I lived in South Korea, from the beginning of March, 1997, to the end of February, 1999, my ties to home, to Canada, came through weekly phone calls to my parents and in-laws, through e-mail, and through my short-wave radio, which broadcast CBC's The World At Six as I was getting ready for work in the early hours of my day.

I heard about the ice storm, at first, on the radio. I didn't give it much thought: it's not uncommon for Eastern Ontario to receive freezing rain in late December or early January. I did think that the area that was being covered in this storm was larger than usual, but I didn't feel that there was any cause for alarm.

Besides, I had bigger problems where I was. South Korea was at the height of its economic collapse, and the value of the currency, the won, had plummeted. I was teaching English at a language institute and my director, who had based my pay on the American dollar but paid me in won, found himself paying out more than double the amount that he was used to at the beginning of my contract. On December 31, 1997, instead of receiving my pay, I was told that he couldn't pay me or DW (who was also teaching at the institute), and that he wanted us to leave Korea as soon as possible.

DW and I were in talks with the labour board, and we were trying to find living accommodations (thankfully, our friends, Jason and Jami, came to our rescue and put us up in their spare bedroom, in their apartment).

At the same time, DW and I were teaching privately—illegal, but done by many foreigners—and weren't about to abandon our students and that much-needed, supplemental income.

Later in the day, after I had heard the first report of the ice storm, I sent an e-mail message to my mom, to see if she was okay. Later that evening, she said that there was ice building up on the trees and the roads were slippery, but she and my step father were fine and he was planning to go into work.

Another typical ice storm, I told myself.


Photo: Monteal Gazette
Over the next couple of days, CBC Radio reported that the storm was becoming worse as accumulating ice was knocking out power throughout the region. I called my folks, who lived in Kanata, in Ottawa's west end: they were fine, still had electricity. DW called her parents, but the story in the City View neighbourhood of Nepean was different. The power had gone out, that day, but her folks were fine. They had their fireplace going and were using DW's and my camp stove out the back door to cook meals. They expected the power to return shortly, and told DW to not worry.

DW and I searched the Internet and found stories and images of the storm. We saw images of Ottawa's Centretown, with streets filled with broken branches and Hydro Ottawa crews fixing felled power lines. The thickness of the ice seemed dangerous, at more than a centimetre thick, in some images. As the days went on, we saw that some electrical towers had collapsed under the weight, and power outages from Kingston to Montreal were starting to become dangerous as the days went by.

Photo: CBC
As DW and I learned that our hagwon director became less cooperative with the labour board and had shifted his records to reduce the number of employees, and how the labour board were at a loss to help us, we secured new jobs, thanks to our loyal Korean students. DW would start teaching at the national university; I would be teaching at a private university on the southern outskirts of our city, Chŏnju. Not wanting to overstay our welcome with our friends, and because we needed to leave Korea to renew our work visas, DW and I decided to return home.

The ice storm lasted six days but hadn't inconvenienced our parents. My folks never lost power for more than a couple of minutes; the power in my in-laws' neighbourhood was out for only a couple of days.


Photo: uncredited
We wanted to surprise our folks with our return visit, so we didn't tell them that we were coming. When we arrived in Ottawa, a friend picked us up at the airport and brought us to her parents house. On the drive from the airport, we were shocked at the destruction of the storm. The trees on our route, particularly near the airport, were smashed, devoid of their branches or bent down to the ground. A week after the storm, cleanup crews were still tidying up.

During our stay, we watched the news as they reported the lasting devastation. Some areas were still without power, as tens of thousands of towers and poles had collapsed under the weight. Ottawa had some scars but, by comparison, had fared better than Montreal and some of the small towns and villages in the path of the storm.

While DW and I missed the storm, we still felt that we were part of it. From the reports, to conversations with our family, to seeing the destruction in the aftermath, the ice storm of 1998 is something that we won't forget.

How about you? Where were you? How did you cope with the storm?

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Throwback

The other week, as I was cleaning the house, I found myself rummaging through a spare dresser drawer that I use to store items that I come across but neither have a dedicated place to put them nor wish to throw them out.

It's my odds-and-ends drawer. In it, I am currently keeping a candy tin filled with pennies, a red rubber duck with horns (don't ask), a Star Trek:TNG communicator badge, my dad's old pocket watch, empty money belts, a Ziploc bag containing paraphernalia and cash from my last trip to Scotland, two other Ziploc bags that each contain my kids' teeth (tooth-fairy collections), and various business cards.

I know: I keep a lot of crap in that drawer.

But what caught my attention, particularly because I'm writing about Jeonju University in the sequel to my novel, was this card.


This is my old ID card from the university where I taught English language in 1998. I was 33 at the time.

I can still read Korean—that is to say, I can sound out written Korean but I may not necessarily comprehend the words. I recognize the name of the university in Hangul, at the top of the card—Jeonju Dae Hak-gyo. The second Hangul line, while I can sound it out, I only understand the second-half of the line: it says Gaek-won gyeo-soogyeo-soo meaning professor.

Gyeosunim, the title of my sequel, also means professor.

 But it's the third line of Hangul on my university ID card that always gets me. It's my first name—not the name that I use. Not the name that people call me by.

Guh-rae-goh-ree.

The photo is passport-quality: no smile, eyes forward. My haircut was fresh from the barber shop in the student-commons building. I looked like any male student who had his hair cut at that establishment.

I've looked worse.

Since I found this card in my dresser drawer, I've been wondering what to do with it. I've taken it out of the drawer and put it by my night stand, where I have various odds and ends that I've found from my years in Korea, items that I'm using for research. But I don't know what to do with it, now that I've taken a photo of it. Do I keep the digitized copy and dispose of the original or do I keep it?

Perhaps, for now, I'll throw it back in the drawer where I found it.

Here's to Throwback Thursday.