Monday, November 30, 2020

How You Doin'?

So, it's the last day of November. The final month of 2020 starts tomorrow. And for a year that seems to have taken forever to get through, I'm sure December will go quickly.

Except during the last week or so, when so many people celebrate the holidays with family and friends, only that this year, it won't be that way.

Or shouldn't.

The greatest gift for this Christmas would be that everybody stays home and makes a solid effort to beat back the pandemic.

Many of us have been saying, aloud and to ourselves, that we can't wait for 2020 to be over, as if, by magic, January 1, 2021 will usher in a change, that things will suddenly get better.

It won't.

So, as we move into what is arguably the biggest holiday season of the year, we should pause and take a mental check on ourselves, to see how we're doing, emotionally.

A week or so ago, I saw a chart that was shared on social media. The person who posted it asked how we were feeling. The chart has four columns, each with a list of symptoms that determine your overall level of mental health.

For me, I find that I have symptoms from all of the columns. From the green column, I find that for the most part, I can adjust my plans based on information that I receive and that I can communicate fairly effectively.

But I find that my performance can be inconsistent because I'm always feeling tired and unfocused. Things that I typically love to do seem to be a chore, and I take less pleasure in doing them. My sleep is restless and I'm waking up several times throughout the night. I'm irritated easily, and when I see people flout laws and rules (especially those meant to reduce the spread of COVID), I can become enraged.

I think I have as many symptoms in the red column as I do in the green, but many of my symptoms are in the yellow and orange columns.

So, how am I doing? I am thriving in my ability to stay home, to continue writing, and to being with my immediate family. But my mental health is taking a beating because I'm sleeping badly, which is causing me to become irritated and to lose interest in doing some of the things I love. I lose focus, and I can become a nasty SOB when I'm in public.

I'm surviving (the trials and tribulations of this meagre existence) but I'm struggling.

How about you? How are you doing?

I hope that the last month of 2020 is good to you, that you find the time to get some rest and relaxation. But I think that the only way that we're all going to survive 2021 is to take the pandemic seriously and do our best to collectively cut the spread of the disease.

Because at the end of 2020, we may be tired of this virus but this virus isn't tired of us.

Take care.

Friday, November 27, 2020

Friday Fiction: Chapter 24

Earlier this week, I wrote about a chapter in my novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, and how I had devoted this chapter to the day that Diana, Princess of Wales, died. In today's post, I'll share this chapter with you.

Be warned that if you haven't read my book, there are spoilers in this chapter. With the holidays approaching, my novel might be a nice gift for the book lover in your life. Just sayin'...


August 31, 1997

“Oh Roland, why did I come to Seoul?” asked Naomi.

“To be closer to me?”

For that, Tanya elbowed me in the ribs.

Naomi’s eyes grew large, seemingly ready to jump from their sockets; first in shock at my answer, then at Tanya’s reaction. Naomi smiled, then laughed, and her cheeks coloured. “I have to admit, coming to a country where I knew someone was one of my deciding factors, but no, you’re not the only reason I’m here.” She looked at Tanya, seemingly seeking approval for providing the correct answer. The two had warmed to each other over the course of last night, but that was probably helped by the vast quantities of Australian Shiraz we all consumed. Courtesy of the Australian Embassy, which was located in the same building as the First Canadian Bank. As Naomi told us, the Aussies and the Canadians got along quite well, especially with the branch director and the Australian vice-consul being good friends, and every Friday after work the Australian Embassy workers opened their doors to the folks at the bank. A lounge with a fully stocked bar was also opened, and various labels of beer and wine were available for next to nothing. She managed to get her hands on some Penfolds Shiraz, but last night we had shortened her supply by two or three bottles. After a wonderful home-cooked supper, the three of us relaxed, talked, drank, laughed, and drank some more. Today, feeling a little rough around the edges, we decided to stay indoors and not suffer the heat of another of Seoul’s late summer days on top of a hangover.

“I was reluctant to come to Seoul but I wasn't sure about Budapest, the bank's other available branch post,” continued Naomi. She pronounced the Hungarian capital with an shBudapesht. Naomi always pronounced placenames the way they were spoken in that country. Mae-hee-ko, Pah-ree, Köln, Moskva, Suh-ool. She was certainly a world traveller who, when in Roma, did what the Romanos did. "Men don't take me seriously. I have to deal with Korean male-macho bullshit, especially when it comes to money and investments or to loans and debt. And it's only been a couple of weeks. I'm going to be here for at least a year."

“I know you, Naomi. You can handle anything they throw at you. You’re a tough cookie.”

Tanya and I had arrived in Seoul yesterday as the first official guests of Naomi’s house in Hannam-dong. It was a spacious house by any standard, but for Tanya and me, it was the biggest residence for a single person that we had been in since either of us had left Canada. A large foyer welcomed guests to a raised and carpeted living room. A fireplace, two huge sofas, a reading area with reclining armchairs, even a small upright piano in the corner adorned this vast space, dwarfing my meagre accommodation in Chŏnju. A balcony that hung off the back of the living room and wrapped around the south side of the house offered views of Namsan Tower one way, the Han River on the other. To the left of the foyer was a powder room and a study; to the right, a door to the garage and a hallway to the kitchen. Off to the right side of the living room was a large dining room, and then onward to the kitchen and a pantry that was half the size of my place, excluding my kitchen and bathroom. Going upstairs, Naomi had a huge bedroom with a large ensuite bathroom and walk-in closet. Another bathroom separated the guest room from a study, and all of the upstairs rooms where accessed through a common area, a rec room, where Naomi had set up a long sofa, coffee table, television, and stereo. Carpeting was laid throughout the main and upper level, with the exception of the kitchen and bathrooms. Red mahogany panelling covered the walls, giving the vast spaces a touch of warmth and without making the space seem smaller.

It was just after lunch. We had made a vegetable soup and finished the salad that was left over from last night’s dinner. Naomi had added goat cheese and pomegranate to a spinach and red onion salad; I had never had that taste combination before and was already looking forward to trying it again. Where I would find goat cheese in Chŏnju, I would never know.

We sat in the living room, chatting, music piping softly through speakers that were wired from the upstairs stereo. We sipped non-alcoholic beverages. Naomi and Tanya shared a decorative pot filled with green tea. I wanted something cold and carbonated, but not sweet. I had some re-hydrating to do, so Naomi placed a chilled bottle of club soda and a glass full of ice cubes before me. Perfect.

“It seems that we’re all in Korea at an interesting time,” said Naomi. “I don’t know if it’s just that in living here, we’re getting more news about the North, but it seems like Pyongyang is doing a lot more sabre-rattling. Tension is growing in the DMZ.”

The DMZ, or demilitarized zone, is a four-kilometre-wide strip of land running along the border and separating the two Koreas. Its intention is to serve as a buffer zone for the armies, which were technically still at war. In July, fourteen North-Korean soldiers crossed the DMZ, resulting in a heavy exchange of gun and canon fire that lasted for more than twenty minutes. Neither side reported casualties.

“Ever since I made the decision to come to Korea, it seems as though hostilities have been growing more intense for this little peninsula. I remember, in February, as I was securing airfare and finalizing contract paperwork, the CBC was airing more and more bad news. An assassination in Seoul worried my mother. She wanted me to reconsider leaving the safety of Ottawa.” I was referring to the assassination of a high-profile North Korean defector, just three days after another defection by a high-ranking North Korean party official, Hwang Jang-yop. The assassinated victim was the nephew of Song Hye-rim, who in turn was a former wife of Kim Jong Il. He was shot, in Seoul, by two suspected North-Korean agents, though he had actually defected to the South in the early 1980s. Hwang, the latest defector, walked into the South Korean consulate in Beijing. The shooting, it was speculated, was intended to be a warning to Hwang and other would-be defectors.

“What was his name?” asked Naomi.

“Lee Han-yong.”

“How do you know his name?” asked Tanya.

“I’m a news hound. And I have a good memory, sometimes.”

“He also used to work in a job where remembering names was critical,” added Naomi.

“You know, some information about what I did is still classified.” I winked, to show we were in good company. Neither Naomi nor Tanya knew all the facets of my previous career. After a pause, I changed the subject. "So, it looks like the Korean economy might be in for a bumpy ride."

Economics and international trade; two of Naomi’s favourite topics and the reason that the First Canadian Bank had her here. And when she started talking about economics, she always sounded more like a university lecturer than the average Jane, chewing the fat with her buddies. Formal. Instructional. Only her smile betrayed her tone.

“You mean the trouble with the chaebol? Lots of bad loans. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a lot of Korean corporations go under.”

“We’re heading for a meltdown, don’t you think?” I asked. “Already, huge corporations are starting to crumble and the won is slipping. It’s not worth what it was when I got here, that’s for sure.”

“The biggest problem is that these chaebol are heavily invested in export-oriented manufacturing and have neglected their domestic market. If other countries suffer economic downturns, they’re screwed. And these guys are competing with each other; it’s unsustainable. How many car companies are there?”

I started to count. “Hyundai, Kia, Daewoo... ."

"SsangYong," said Tanya.

"Asia," added Naomi.

"And I think I read somewhere that Samsung is getting into the game.”

“Right. That’s six car companies, which is crazy for a country this size. And the chaebol have their hands in so many cookie jars. Look at LG: electronics, construction, and gas stations.”

I thought of one day, in Chŏnju, I was riding a bus that had stopped for a red light. On one corner was an LG gas station. On another corner, an electronics store with a large-screen LG television displayed in the window. On the third corner, a multi-building complex was under construction; some of the buildings were completed and inhabited, as told by the freshly painted side of the building. The circular red LG logo glowing in the sunshine. Kia and Hyundai also had their hands in the construction business. “On one hand, seeing a huge corporation diversified instills a bit of confidence that if one economic sector grows weak, the company can lean on the other sectors. On the other hand, it’s frightening to know a company can own so much.”

“Having so many irons in the fire, if I can change metaphors, is also courting an unfathomable disaster. These chaebol are so severely indebted financing their expansions, not only to state industrial banks, but to independent banks and their own financial services subsidiaries. If they cannot honour their debts, the banks can’t write them off without collapsing themselves. Bankruptcies are just beginning. Trillions of won in bad credits has already been extended to the chaebol.”

“There is so much corruption,” said Tanya, finally joining in the discussion. “Politicians who are either friends of chaebol or are chaebol themselves are telling banks to loan huge sums to these corporations or face being closed down.”

“I’m glad I’m not here for the money,” I said.

“You mean you’d work for Kwon for free?” laughed Tanya. I loved her laugh. It was so genuine. She didn’t do it often, and when she did it was a clear indication that she was relaxed. I was glad, and joined in her laugh. We were talking serious stuff, and I was happy to see that it wasn’t getting to her. Already, a few ex-pats in Chŏnju caught a whiff of the impending downturn and were jumping ship. I didn’t want Tanya to worry about money.

Naomi seemed to read my thoughts. “Roland’s father left him a fortune, Tanya. He’s rich.”

My smile left my face. “That’s not information I like to share, Naomi. I told you that a long time ago, when I quit my job with CSIS.”

“I’m sorry, Roland, I thought you would have told Tanya.”

“It’s not something I like to brag about. The fact that I’ve got money doesn’t define who I am.” I turned to Tanya. “I hope I haven’t hurt you by not telling you. You and I never talk about money, and that’s always been fine with me.”

“I’ve always thought we were in the same boat, financially speaking. I know how much Kwon pays you. We both make enough to live on and we both send the extra money home. I’ve never given your financial history much thought. How much money are we talking about?”

“Dad was a stereotypical Scot. He was tight with a buck: deep pockets, short arms. He invested wisely, spent frugally. He had a healthy insurance policy, held lots of company shares, and had very few debts. When he died, he had made sure that his family was well looked after.” I took a sip of the club soda. It wasn’t cold, the ice had already melted, but it still had plenty of fizz to it. “Most of his investments were cashed out when he died, and he left a tidy sum to my mother, to Siobhan, and to me. Of course, his will was written when I had a wife and child and when Siobhan was finishing university, so my share was a little larger that hers. My father left me a little more than a half-million dollars.”

Tanya’s eyes grew very large and her mouth opened, but she said nothing.

I felt I should continue. “My father gave me lots of financial advice when I grew up. When Laura was born, he insisted that Kristen and I draw up wills and get a good insurance policy. We did, but neither of us thought much of it afterwards. When Kristen died, her policy paid off our mortgage and left me with another half-million. Her investments added about a hundred thousand to the pot.”

“Oh my God, Roland,” exclaimed Naomi, “you’re a millionaire.” To Tanya, she said, “You’re dating a millionaire.”

“Don’t,” I said, louder than I meant to. The news seemed foreign to me. I never expressed myself as rich, let alone a millionaire. That wasn’t me, didn’t define me. “They’re ill-gotten gains, as far as I’m concerned. I’d happily return every penny if it doing so could bring back those I’ve lost. I haven’t touched any of it.”

“What about that care package last month? That must have cost you a bundle.”

“I used up my former savings for that, Tanya. At least, I told my mother to debit my savings account to pay for the package. I still haven’t checked, but I have a feeling she paid with her own money. Dad would have been furious at such extravagance.”

A silence fell on the room. An awkwardness. Everyone was avoiding eye contact. Slowly, Tanya extended her arm and gently placed a hand on my bare knee. Her hand was cool from the air conditioning. I wished now that I had brought jeans, but knew that once I stepped outside I would be thankful for my shorts. I placed my hand on hers. I loved her, and now felt bad for not telling her about the money. Not for the money’s sake, but for the fact that I had parts of my life that I still kept to myself. I lifted my eyes and looked into hers. She was trying to look into mine, trying to see what other things I hadn’t told her. Not accusing or showing any disappointment. But with a hint of sorrow. She was looking to empathize with my loss and saw the cost it had inflicted upon me, not the gain.

Naomi was the first to break the silence with a diplomatic change of subject. “Tell me more about your upcoming trip. What time does your flight leave?”

It was pretty much all we talked about last night, but Tanya and I didn’t mind talking more. We were excited. Tanya and I were taking our first big trip together since Cheju. China. Beijing. The Great Wall. The Korean harvest festival, Ch’usŏk, was on Tuesday, September 16. It was a holiday that was turning out to be a super-long weekend for us — from Saturday, September 13 to Wednesday, the seventeenth. Ch’usŏk typically lasted for three days and was a time when Koreans flocked to their home towns, which were often outside of the larger city centres. It would take a day to drive to your destination, a day of celebrating, and a day to get home. During the celebrations, traditional food was consumed, including songp'yŏn, a half-moon shaped cake made of glutenous rice and filled with a sweet filling of chestnut paste. It was a nice treat, but I always wondered why the cake would be shaped like a half moon when Ch’usŏk was celebrated over a full moon.

Alex had organized another ex-pat trip, and this time he promised that there would be emphasis on the word organized. He had a couple of people who helped him arrange everything from getting the travellers from Chŏnju to Kimp’o, from the Beijing airport to our hotel, and a professional tour company to execute our itinerary. Alex had planned our commute to Seoul with an extra hour as a buffer; we’d leave Chŏnju six hours before our plane was set to depart. After the disaster with our sleepy bus driver, Alex reserved shuttle buses from the Core Hotel, whose drivers were guaranteed to be well-rested. It was also considerably cheaper, since the hotel ran the buses anyways. Alex promised that he had learned a lot from his Cheju mistakes. Beijing was going to be an amazing experience.

Our biggest disappointment about our trip was that Brad and Wilma wouldn’t be joining us. They had recently been to Shanghai and were going to have a quiet, romantic weekend alone in Chŏnju. I read that as sex, sex, and more sex. Brad would only smile when I suggested this. He told me that because Ch’usŏk was infamous for nasty traffic congestion on all major highways, mostly from people leaving Seoul to visit their ancestral towns, he and Wilma didn’t want to risk sitting for hours in Korean traffic. Instead, the two of them would spend time with as few clothes on as possible.

For our trip, Tanya and I were assured that traffic to Seoul would be no heavier than usual for a Friday morning, and that there were bus-only dedicated lanes. The Core Hotel was assuring us of a maximum of three hours to get to the airport. We put our faith in them, if not so much in Alex.

“We fly out at noon,” said Tanya. “We leave Chŏnju early, at six.”

“Who are you flying with?”

“Air China.”

“What’s its safety record?” We all had the most recent air disaster on our mind. The crash of Korean Air Flight 801 in Guam earlier this month. Two hundred and twenty-eight dead, mostly Korean. Press coverage was pretty extensive. It was not something anyone likes to hear just before a flight of their own.

“As far as I know,” I said, “they’re okay. I haven’t heard of any disasters.”

“I’d rather not talk about the flight,” said Tanya, who had told me she was always nervous about flying. “We’re going to have a great time. I’ve always wanted to see the Forbidden City.”

“I guess now that you know I have money, China’s on me... .” We all had a good laugh, even though I meant it. Tanya wouldn't be spending a yuan of her own. My treat.

The phone rang, startling all of us. Naomi reached over to the table next to where she was sitting and casually picked up the phone. In perfect Korean, she said, “Yŏboseyo?” I had a strong feeling that if the person on the other end was Korean, Naomi could competently handle the conversation. “Yes? No, I have some friends over. Why?” Naomi’s voice suddenly turned professional, as though she were just called to attention. “What? When? Thanks, I’ll do that now.” She hung up the phone. Her face looked grim.

“Bad news?” I asked as she stood up.

“That was Tracy, a secretary at the bank.” Naomi stood and started heading towards the stairs that led up. “She said to turn the TV on to CNN. There’s been an accident.”

***

I had so rarely watched TV in Korea, and today was my first glimpse at Western media in six months. When Naomi tuned in to CNN, the broadcaster was in the middle of an announcement.

"...in a car accident in Paris. The princess has been taken to an unknown hospital for treatment. The extent of her injuries is unclear at this stage. Reports from France say two other people in the car have been killed, including her companion, Harrods heir Dodi al-Fayed. The driver of the car was also killed. Diana was on a private visit to the French capital; the accident occurred in a tunnel in western Paris, beside the River Seine. Just repeating, Diana, Princess of Wales, has been seriously injured in a car accident in Paris. Her companion, Dodi al-Fayed, has been killed."

“Oh my God, how horrible,” said Tanya as she sat down on the sofa in the second-floor rec room. We all sat down on the sofa, me in the middle, Tanya on my right, Naomi to my left. With another remote control from the one used to turn on the TV, Naomi switched off the music.

On the TV, we saw footage of an underpass. A BMW police station wagon, police van, and cruiser blocked the ramp, their amber lights flashing. A small police bus moving slowly. The camera zoomed in to peek down into the tunnel but revealing very little. People walking about. A stopped vehicle. No obvious signs of trouble. Another shot, from a camera at a different angle. An emergency vehicle in the tunnel. A large white truck.

Speculation from the broadcaster and a reporter as to the cause of the crash. Diana and Dodi were being chased by paparazzi, at high speed, possibly making contact. The car struck a centre-lane support pillar. Questions were raised about whether the passengers were wearing seatbelts. The passenger in the front was a body guard to the princess.

“The poor princess,” said Naomi. “Just when she seemed to find happiness, this happens.”

“My mum is a fan of the Monarchy, and in particular, of the princess. This will be a shock to her. I hope Diana pulls through.” My mother was currently in Scotland, visiting Siobhan, so was probably asleep, oblivious to the tragedy that was unfolding. I would have to call them later today, when they were awake.

New footage. This time, inside the tunnel. It was well-lit. The fluorescent glow giving the corridor an almost antiseptic feel. Men in blue coveralls and bright yellow jackets made the setting look like something from a science-fiction movie. A grey flatbed truck was visible. So was the car. The announcer said it was a 600-series Mercedes, but nothing I saw supported that claim. There was no evidence that the black mass was even an automobile, but what else could something that size be? A black mass of twisted metal. The front end pressed flat. The entire engine compartment compressed to the firewall. The firewall pushed beyond its ability to keep the engine out of the passenger compartment. The bodies inside vulnerable to the violence of the impact and abrupt stop.

I was drawn in to the images in front of me, but I was elsewhere. I wasn’t sitting in Seoul, watching a live transmission of Paris. I was in Canada, near Westport in Eastern Ontario, looking at a twisted mass of black metal, tucked in the underside of a tractor trailer. A Land Rover, not identifiable by its front end. Its engine compartment pressed all the way to the passenger compartment. A yellow tarp over the windscreen. Emergency vehicles crowding the scene.

I could feel that my legs wanted to fail me, but I had to know. I had to move forward. My eyes were mistaken, my brain failed me. But my heart knew. It was Dad’s SUV, scratched, dented, covered in dirt. It was Dad’s blood on the fragments of broken glass. I had to know. The police officer tried to stop me, but I had to know.

Two ambulances. A crying paramedic. A stretcher with a body bag. The pale firefighter.

A warm hand taking mine. “Roland, are you all right? You’re breathing loudly through your nose.” It was Tanya.

Images of Princess Diana on the TV. In a black evening gown and tiara. In her wedding dress, exiting the carriage, the impossibly long train flowing behind her. In a light blue shirt and khakis, in Africa. Tabloid covers with her and Dodi, in swimsuits, on a boat. Video documentation of a woman who was hounded by press, never left alone.

Back to the tunnel. Clearer shots of the car. The back end intact, the unmistakable markings of a Mercedes. A crane arm raised above the car. It was going to be difficult to move it.

It took hours to pry Dad’s Land Rover from the transport truck. Regional Road 42 between Noonan Roads North and South were closed until the next morning, until investigators had finished gathering evidence and road crews were able to remove both vehicles and major debris. By the time the Monday-morning commuters had to get going, the road would show no sign of the carnage of the day before.

Police were detaining photographers. Film was being confiscated. Who would want to see the images that their film held? The news cameras showed people on the small bus. Paparazzi being detained.

A story about my family’s accident ran in the Ottawa Citizen, in the Kingston Whig Standard, the Perth Courier, the Smiths Falls Record News, but thankfully there had been no photographers. There was no photo record of the event. No image would change what I saw. No photo could ever capture the emotion at the scene. A Citizen photographer had asked my mum for pictures of the victims, but had declined the request. It would be too painful for her to see her loved ones in that context. The reporter respected her feelings. No pictures accompanied the story.

A hand rubbing my back. I felt light-headed, hot. I was in Seoul, but I was light-headed.

We were jumping between broadcasts of CNN, BBC, and Sky News. A BBC broadcaster was on the screen, talking to a reporter, who was in Paris.

The broadcaster asked, “What is your view of what is now happening at the hospital?”

The reporter was Stephen Jessel, according to the by line and photograph. “Well, I’m... I’m... worried... um... by the lack of any news or any statement; however, there are reports that she’s in a reanimation area of the hospital, which suggests that maybe she is in a slightly more serious condition than we had thought before. I think it is slightly disturbing that we haven’t had some sort of official communiqué, giving her... giving the state of her health and giving some indication of what might happen next... I don’t think that’s terribly... encouraging sign.”

Kristen didn’t die right away. She lived long enough to see her faceless father-in-law, to know her three-year-old daughter was dead, to talk to the truck driver — who repeatedly reassured her that she would be okay and that help was on its way. Kristen told the firefighters what had happened, what she witnessed first-hand. Kristen grew weak as the minutes drew on, as the firefighters crawled through the front windshield and cut away at the metal that had trapped her, had crushed her lower torso and legs. They were gentle with her and were reassuring with her, as the driver of the truck had been, but both the rescuers and Kristen knew that she wouldn’t make it. She was fading too quickly for them to get her to the hospital, let alone get her out of the vehicle in time to save her life. An air ambulance had been dispatched to the scene, but before it reached its destination, Kristen was gone. The pilot was told to turn around. A tricky landing on a remote stretch of road was unnecessary. When Kristen’s lifeless body was finally extracted from the Land Rover, one of the ambulances on the scene would be able to transport her at a leisurely pace, along with her daughter and father-in-law.

The television showed a darkened view of a building with an ambulance parked in front of the doors. According to the news banner, it was the Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital, where Diana had been taken. News officials were still speculating on the condition of the princess. Images jumped between the hospital and the Mercedes-Benz, which was being lifted onto the flatbed truck.

The news anchor interrupted the report: “Stephen, I have to interrupt there... um... because within the last few moments, the Press Association in Britain, citing unnamed British sources, has reported that Diana, Princess of Wales, has died. This is not yet confirmed by any official source.” The anchor paused. I wished that they would show his name. He was staying professional, but I could see that deep down he was grieving. We all were. Even though he stressed that the report was not yet confirmed, we knew. Just as when I approached the ambulances, I knew. I didn’t want to believe it, but I knew that everyone in Dad’s SUV was dead. You never want to believe it, even if the harsh truth is staring you in the face. The evidence for Diana was there too.

The anchor licked his lips and continued: “So, an unconfirmed... uh... source... from the Press Association... is that Diana, Princess of Wales, has died.”

Breathing was difficult. My legs were weak. But I had to move forward. I had to see them. I remembered the smell of water drying on pavement, of gasoline, of burned rubber, of warm engines. The sound of idling vehicles, of radio dispatchers. The sight of flashing lights, of serious faces. It was hard to speak.

“Roland, are you okay? You’re shaking.” I heard the voice, but couldn’t place it. I felt ill. Nauseated. The sight of the emergency vehicles, of the damaged Mercedes on the flatbed. It brought back the past.

I stood up, but my legs were weak. But I had to move. I forced my way forward, past the faceless people. I walked into the bathroom, to the toilet, where I threw up.

***

We continued watching, rivetted to the set, late into the afternoon. At approximately 6:00 a.m., Greenwich Mean Time, CNN took us from their coverage to a live feed from the BBC. Britons were waking to the news that their Princess was gone. On the TV, the Union Jack fluttered, half-staff, held in a steady breeze. Slowed down, as though time itself was taking a pause to process the devastating news. God Save the Queen played, the music slow and somehow saddened by the occasion. At the bottom of this image, white text emerged to explain the change to the programming schedule.

Diana, Princess of Wales
1961 – 1997

A fade to black, held for only seconds but which seemed like ages.

A somber Martin Lewis of the BBC appeared. His white hair neatly combed. His glasses helped focus serious eyes. A newscaster appropriately dressed in a grey jacket and solid, black tie.

"This is BBC Television from London. Diana, Princess of Wales, has died after a car crash in Paris. The French government announced her death just before five o’clock this morning. Buckingham Palace confirmed the news shortly afterwards. In a statement, the Palace said: “The Queen and the Prince of Wales are deeply shocked and distressed by this terrible news.” Normal programs have been suspended throughout the morning while we bring you the latest news and reaction."

“I have to call my sister.”

“We have to go back to Chŏnju, Roland,” said Tanya, “it’s getting late.”

“It won’t take long. We can take a taxi to the subway station.”

“You need to eat,” said Naomi. “Roland, make your call while I prepare something. You can take it with you.” To Tanya, she said, “Come give me a hand, it’ll go faster.” She handed me the cordless phone, which she had carried from downstairs to the TV when she first got the call. She provided a prefix to dial before I punched in Siobhan’s number. It put the call through a line that reduced the cost.

Siobhan answered the phone. Mum was still asleep, but my sister was getting ready for work. She hadn’t yet heard the news. In a way, I was glad it was me who broke the news. I told her to tune into the BBC, that the princess was dead, and that I’d call again when I returned to Chŏnju. Siobhan was understandably shocked. She had loved Diana since the wedding in 1981. I remember a poster of a young Diana on Siobhan’s bedroom wall. She thanked me for the call, asked me how I was, and said she would tell Mum. She said she loved me and rang off before she started crying.

***

Tanya and I said very little on the bus ride to Chŏnju. We were in shock and exhausted. We felt as though we had just learned of the loss of a relative. Diana had been known as the people’s princess, and the people who recognized her as their princess spanned the globe. She was, indeed, a family member. The family known as the human race.

We said little but I held on tightly to Tanya. She had been wonderful throughout my ordeal at Naomi’s. She helped me at the toilet, rubbing my back, telling me it would be all right. She cleaned me up, made sure the bathroom was also left clean. She packed my backpack with my used clothes and shaving kit. She led me to the bus station and into my seat. She fed me the ham sandwiches that she and Naomi had made while I was telling my sister the sad news.

I was exhausted, both physically and emotionally. In watching the news coverage, I had relived my own horror. But this time, Tanya was with me, held my hand, ran her fingers through my hair, told me I was all right. On the bus, she held me the whole way, and without words told me that everything would be all right.

When we arrived in Chŏnju, We walked the short distance to my flat. It was 10:00, and I asked her to stay the night with me, to stay with me while I called my mum. She agreed.

“I love you,” I said, looking into her deep, beautiful blue eyes.

She smiled. “I love you too, Roland.”

“Move in with me. You don't need to live alone at Wilma's flat. And I don't want to live alone in mine.”

More smiles and only a slight pause while she considered the proposal carefully. “Yes, I think that would be very nice.” We kissed and I hugged her tightly.

Tanya was right. Everything was going to be all right.

Monday, November 23, 2020

Netflix, Royals, Fiction, and Reality

I realized, this weekend, that there's a royal element to the Netflix programs that DW and I have been watching, recently. And one of these shows, in particular, got me thinking of a royal connection that I wrote about in my novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary.

This weekend, DW and I started watching The Queen's Gambit, the story of a young woman chess prodigy, brilliantly played by Anya Taylor-Joy. Whether you love chess or not, the story is quite riveting. We're only four episodes into the series, but we're hooked. We'll likely be finished it by mid-week.

Image: Netflix, via Wikipedia
Another series we just wrapped up watching is The Crown. Season 4 falls during a time in which both DW and I have lived, starting in 1979, when Margaret Thatcher became Britain's first woman prime minister. It was wonderful to see Gillian Anderson, an actress I love, portray a woman so loathed. Anderson is brilliant.

I remembered that as a young teen, I had heard news about the rocky relationship between Prince Charles and Diana, and I remember thinking of the Queen's son as a dull and wretched person, and actor Josh O'Connor leaves the audience detesting Charles.

It was sometimes hard to watch Emma Corrin play Diana and not get lost, imagining her to be the real Princess of Wales. The costumes, the hair, and the makeup really captured Diana.

Watching this season of The Crown, and seeing Lady Diana portrayed on the small screen, DW and I were anticipating the ultimate outcome of this tragic person. It got me thinking of my novel because I devote a chapter to the untimely demise of Diana.

While my novel is largely fiction, there are many episodes within the pages that were taken from my own experiences while I was living in South Korea, from 1997 to 1999. And one of my most vivid memories of my two-year stay in that country was sitting in a friend's house, in Seoul, enjoying a weekend together, when a phone call told us to turn on CNN. Though it was only mid-afternoon in Korea on Sunday, August 31, 1997, it was just after one in the morning, in Paris. We tuned into the news shortly after the crash, when Diana, Dodi Fayed, Henri Paul, and Trevor Rees-Jones were still in the wreckage of the Mercedes.

We stayed glued to the television until shortly after the BBC came on air and announced to Britain that they had lost their princess. On the three-hour bus ride from Seoul to Chonju, DW and I held onto each other and said nothing. We were exhausted and sad.

While The Crown didn't end its fourth season with the demise of Diana, we know what must surely come in Season 5. Though the series is highly fictionalized, the truth lies in there as well. Just as my novel is fiction, with a dose of reality thrown in.

Re-reading Chapter 24 in Songsaengnim stirs up emotions for me, bringing be back to that TV set in Seoul, South Korea on August 31, 1997. I wonder if the same will happen, watching Season 5 of The Crown.

In the meantime, I'll lose myself in The Queen's Gambit.

Friday, November 20, 2020

Friday Fiction: HanokStay

The following is a draft excerpt from my novel, Gyeosunim. If you haven't read my previous novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, be warned that while there are no spoilers, you may be missing some context.

Sunday, May 12, 2019

I had dozed off on the express bus, shortly after leaving the outer limits of Seoul, and was waking up as I felt the bus slow. I was sitting toward the back, on the driver’s side, and could see a vast apartment complex to the east. We must be passing Taejŏn, about an hour north of Chŏnju. But when the bus turned off the highway and passed through a familiar toll booth, I realized that this was, indeed, my old city. Where I had once been able to see my original apartment in Dongsan-Dong was now its own city of tall, thin apartment buildings. Somewhere, buried in the towering growth, was the old neighbourhood.

We turned at an intersection that I thought I recognized but it appeared as though I was dreaming and hadn’t remembered it correctly. An LG gas station that had been there in 1998 remained but was larger and the intersection had widened, with an underpass that kept main traffic flowing. Near the intersection lay the soccer stadium that had been built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup tournament. Chŏnju had been vying for a venue in 1997, with banners across the city that read World Cup MUST be held in Chŏnju! 

The layout of Dongsan-Dong had changed, including streets, and I soon was unable to recognize where I was. It wasn’t until we reached the industrial district, along Paltal-ro, where I gained some familiarity. But there were more buildings along the route that I only recognized some of the factories. When we turned right, onto a street that was much further north than I was used to turning, the city fell foreign to me. We were travelling in a new development. I no longer felt that we were in Chŏnju. I began to fear that perhaps the bus terminal had moved to a newer part of town, that perhaps Google Maps was out of date.

My fears were alleviated when I caught a glimpse of the old sports stadium and the towering building of Jeonbuk Bank, but I still couldn’t recognize the street on which the express bus travelled. There were new buildings that hid the familiar skyline, but I was sure we were near the bus terminal.

We turned onto another street and then took an immediate right into a large parking area that was full of similar buses, and I knew I was at the bus station, but the circular building had been replaced with a long, rectangular building. I exited the bus, grabbed my suitcase from the storage area, and walked into the terminal. Inside, it seemed like a shopping mall, with various stores and food venues. I saw a Dunkin Donuts logo and several Korean businesses, and wondered which way to go to get out onto the street. There was no exit on this floor so I went upstairs where I saw a small doorway that seemed to lead outside. A ramp led me to the sidewalk, where I felt a strong, hot breeze on my face. Several taxis lined up on the street and I walked to the car at the front of the line.

Chŏnju hanok suh-pah, ka, chuseyo,” I told the driver in very rusty Hangul. He immediately nodded his head and helped me place my suitcase in his trunk. Had he hesitated before acknowledging my destination, I would have known that he didn’t know where we were going. We could have been in for a long and costly ride.

I chose a landmark in the Hanok Village, the Chŏnju Hanock Spa. It was across the street from my rental apartment. I had found the location through Google Maps: the street view showed a large building with lots of cars in its parking lot, and I guessed that it was a popular place. Even as the taxi driver let me out, plenty of cars filled the lot and many people were coming and going on this Sunday afternoon.

The driver had taken me straight down Paltal-ro from the bus terminal, and I was relieved to find that this part of town hadn’t changed. We passed the building where Kwon’s hagwon had once been. The Youngchin Building had been purple brick when I lived in Chŏnju but had been resurfaced and was now a bland grey. I read a sign over the fifth floor, where our office had once been. There was a new hagwon in its place, under a different name. Perhaps I would give it a visit?


My HanokStay, as the apartment sign read, was on the northernmost part of the Hanok Village and by the looks of this block, the houses hadn’t undergone the reformation that the core of this ancient neighbourhood had. The traditional Korean house of wood and plaster, with a sloped, black-tiled roof, was tucked in a narrow alcove and showed the aging that this thousand-year-old neighbourhood had displayed in 1998.

I rang the bell on the gate and entered. A narrow, gardened path took me along the side of the house and into a courtyard, where countless flowers, fountains, and ornaments filled the space. It was obvious that the owner took pride in her garden.

A woman stepped out into the courtyard from a doorway on the opposite end of the yard. She was about my age, and I took a slight intake of breath as I realized the time that had elapsed since I was last in Korea. I would have addressed such a woman as ajuma—aunt—but now I was a contemporary.

Annyong hasseyo,” I said, bowing slightly. I was fairly certain that my hostess spoke no English. We had corresponded through Airbnb messages, and she always responded to me in Hangul, which I had to translate through Google. She had told me, in these correspondences, that her name was Choon-ju, and that she was looking forward to my visit. She had also wished peace and happiness upon me.

Oso-oshipshiyo,” she replied, welcoming me. She was petite, with a smiling face and hair cut short, just above her shoulders. In 1998, the typical hairstyle for a woman her age was a tight curl, but either that trend had faded or she didn’t follow it. Instead, her hair showed faint highlights of auburn, possibly used to hide some strands of grey. She appeared very stately and it was obvious that in her youth she had been very pretty. She was dressed in a bold pink blouse and black polyester slacks. On her feet were white socks inside black sandals.

Jeh illuhm-eun Lollanduh ibnida,” I said, introducing myself. I then extended my open hand outward, gesturing toward the garden. “Areum-dapda.” Beautiful.

Nae, nae, komap-subnida. Junun Choon-ju ibnida. Mannaseyo pangapsubnida.” Yes, yes, thanks. I’m Choon-ju. Pleased to meet you. I could see that I was going to get some practice from my rusty Korean language skills. Choon-ju led me toward the house, which had sliding screen doors that separated the outdoor steps to an inner hallway that looked out into her garden. There were three separate rooms in this inner corridor, and my room was in the middle. Wooden, French-style doors swung out into the corridor and revealed traditional sliding paper screens. The swing-out doors had ornate metal rings on both sides, and one ring was fashioned with a chain and lock. In between these two sets of doors, recessed into the frame that held them, was a set of meshed screen doors, which would be used to keep the mosquitos and other insects out of the room.

The room itself was fairly simple. Rectangular, with papered plaster walls, the wooden frame of the house showed through the ceiling. A simple yo was laid on the floor and occupied most of the space. An end table on the far wall held a medium-sized flat-screen TV and a basket filled with towels of various sizes, each embroidered with the HanokStay name and logo. There was a small stand to hold coats and hats, and wooden pegs jutted from the walls to hold other items. It was clear that my clothes were going to stay in my suitcase, to be removed as required.

An air-conditioning unit was affixed to the wall, high above the TV, and its remote control was attached to a holder, next to a light switch that was beside the doorway into the bathroom. The bathroom itself had a western toilet. A frosted-glass partition separated the shower, which had a modern waterfall head that drained into the tiled floor. The room was simple but perfect for my needs.

Choon-ju explained the room to me as she showed me around, and even though I couldn’t understand most of what she said, her gestures were clear and I was able to nod my understanding to her. At the end of the short tour, she drew my attention to a mini-fridge in the corner, near the entrance, and opened it to reveal various bottles of water, juice, and energy drinks. She retrieved a small energy drink bottle and handed it to me. Her words indicated that she felt I must be tired from my journey, and encouraged me to drink it immediately. It was sweet, with a mild flavour of herbs and fruit. I was able to finish it in one mouthful, and Choon-ju smiled as she took the empty bottle from me. “Mashisseyo,” I said, “kamsa-habnida.” Delicious, thank you.

Our tour over, Choon-ju led me back into the garden and over to a wooden stand where several maps and brochures were displayed. She pulled out a map that showed the entire Hanok Village and, producing a Sharpie marker, circled where we were. She then began pointing out nearby attractions—the palace, Jeondong Church, and P’ungnammun, the old city gate. She also traced the main street through the village, Taejo-ro, named after the first king of the Choson Dynasty. Choon-ju seemed to indicate that there were lots of places to eat.

On the northernmost part of the map, a few blocks away from us, she circled a spot and pointed to it a couple of times. I recognized a couple of words: kongnamul-gukbap, a popular soup made mostly with bean sprouts, which was thought to cure hangovers; and dee-shee, a Korean term for discount, seemingly taken from some English bastardization. I quickly discerned that Choon-ju was explaining that if I dined there and mentioned that I was staying at her HanokStay, I would receive a discount. I nodded and said, “Ahruh-suh,” stating that I got it.

Choon-ju produced a registry and opened it to a page that was held with a pen. I could see mostly Korean guests in the list but one British couple had written that they had a lovely stay, and that they loved Choon-ju’s hospitality and kindness. I wrote my name and indicated that I was coming from North Berwick, Scotland. Though it was too soon for me to provide a review of any sort, I added that the garden was beautiful and that I had received a warm welcome.

No doubt, I was going to find peace and happiness here.

Thursday, November 19, 2020

It's The Small Things

My wife and daughter are the ones who really made a big deal about it.

For years, I've considered getting a device that would crush the aluminum cans that we accumulate, be it the small cans of soda water, tonic, and the occasional pop cans, or the tall boys, the pint cans of beer that I go through on a regular basis.

The reason for getting the can crusher was two-fold: it would limit the amount of space these cans take as they fill up our blue recycle bin and it would save my hands, which sometimes fall at risk of being sliced open as the can tears and exposes jagged edges as I crush the cans by hand.

I wasn't desperate for the can crusher; rather, it was one of hundreds of nice-to-have items that I've stored in my head, planning to buy when the time was right, when my want for the item fell in a time when I was thinking about it and had the time and budget to get it. The time became right as I was reading my Twitter feed and saw that a friend had picked one up, and was taking some pleasure in crushing these columns of light metal that we call cans.

With my smartphone in hand, it was only a few seconds of searching before I found a device that had good reviews and was reasonably priced. A few swipes later, it was ordered.

DW and DD17 were in the kitchen with me, as I ordered the crusher, and I mentioned it as I tapped the Place Order button. They questioned why, after so many years without one, I suddenly felt the need to spend money on what they thought was a frivolous purchase.

I explained that it was something that I had on my mental list for years, that I found one that looked decent, and I added the pleasure that my friend got from using hers.

Both wife and daughter said I was nuts.

A couple of days later, the package arrived on my doorstep. As I opened the box—again, in the kitchen where DW and DD17 were watching TV in the adjoining family room—they exclaimed that I was crazy for buying the can crusher.

"Why are you making a big deal over it?" I asked.

"You're making a big deal over it," they said.

"How am I making a big deal? I merely mentioned that I was ordering it and had wanted one for a while."

"It's just extra, Dad," said DD17.

I rolled my eyes and took the device to our garage, looking for the best place to affix it. There were a couple of places, but I thought the best one was near our blue recycle bin because I could crush a can and simply drop it in the box. I didn't have time, right away, to mount it to the wall, so I set it in our laundry room, which leads into the garage, and left that job to the weekend, when I usually do big chores around the house.

On Saturday, I got out my tool box to retrieve my electric drill. As I was attaching a screw head to the bit, DW asked, "What'cha up to?"

"I'm mounting the can crusher to the wall."

"Oh my God, Dad!" exclaimed DD17.

"And you say that I'm making a big deal about this," I said.

I placed the device against the door frame that leads from the garage to our laundry room. That's where the stud was located, where the crusher wouldn't get in the way of the recycle bin or the extension cord that hangs further above. Four screws, and it was done.

I moved the lever a few times to ensure that the action was smooth and that it didn't strike the door frame. It was perfect. I tried to move the crusher but it was solidly attached to the wall. I put my tools away and went about the rest of my chores.

That evening, as we watched TV, I chose a nice, juicy IPA to enjoy as we relaxed. I filled a glass and then carried the can as I headed toward the garage.

"Are you going to crush the can?" asked DW.

"Yup."

DD17 rolled her eyes. I said nothing.

My friend is right: there's a certain satisfaction in effortlessly, safely reducing a large beer can to a thin mass of twisted metal. The crusher worked perfectly.


I said nothing as I returned to the family room.

"Well?" asked DW.

"Well what?"

"How was it?"

"It works exactly as designed." I focused on the TV program.

DW picked up her empty can of club soda and asked DD17 if she wanted to try the device. Our young daughter declined. DW rushed out to the garage and came back with a smile.

"That was satisfying!"

I declined a comment but inside, I was smiling. Two of my family members had made a big deal about my order, but now one of them was converted. So far, my kid hasn't shown any interest. That's okay.

When I finally made the decision to knock one item off my mental shopping list, I was purely looking at the practical application of the device. Given the amount of cans we consume in a week, given the desire to protect my hands (I'm the only one who crushed cans before throwing them out), it was a good idea. But the small satisfaction that the process of crushing the cans provides, there is an unexpected entertainment value that is added to the purchase.

It's the small things in life that make it worth living.

Tuesday, November 17, 2020

It's Going to Be a COVID Christmas

I'm sorry to my local retail businesses, but unless you're online with free delivery, I'm going to be giving you a miss this year.

Photo credit: Huffington Post
I won't be going to any shopping malls or small gift shops this Christmas season. I'm staying home, doing all my holiday shopping online.

And I have to admit, I've been using Amazon like a drunken sailor on shore leave. No muss, no fuss: look for what I need, see the various selections, read the reviews, compare prices, swipe with my phone app, and it's on my doorstep in a day or two.

This is the way I shop these days. And the longer this pandemic goes on, the more I get used to shopping this way, the more chances that this will remain my norm.

I hate shopping as it is. I hated malls and crowded stores.

If I can support local, I will, but it has to be in my mind. I have to think, yes, this is where I used to go to get those kinds of things.

Don't blame me for not going out to my local stores this holiday. Blame the COVidiots who, through their social gathering, failure to wearing masks and maintaining a safe distance. They are the reason that the pandemic is still raging.

Oh yeah, and while you're at it, blame the provincial government for its inaction, for its failure in implementing strong restrictions that could have decimated the virus months ago.

I know, I ranted about this yesterday. But I'm still as angry that we're going nowhere with flattening the curve.

I really miss people.

I don't miss shopping, though, so this online thing is really not so bad. With any luck, I'll have shopped and wrapped my gifts long before the holidays.

It's going to be a COVID Christmas.

Monday, November 16, 2020

No Such Thing as Common Sense

Last Friday, November 13, marked the eighth month since the COVID-19 lockdown in Ottawa. Two Friday the Thirteenths, one global pandemic.

Remember when we were young and naive, when we thought we'd lock ourselves away for three or four weeks—six at the most—and then life would go back to normal? We'd keep our distance from one another, wash our hands, and use hand sanitizer? As more evidence of the situation came to light, we learned that we should wear masks when indoors or when a two-metre distance from strangers was hard to maintain?

Good times.

The federal government told us that it had our backs, that they would help us through the rough patch were we couldn't go to work, and billions were spent in relief initiatives.

Whew.

But the provincial government grew wary of the lockdown, was eager to help struggling businesses get back on their feet, and so restaurants, pubs, gyms, and other social gathering spots opened up. And the summer was nice, so people went out and had a good time.

And the number of cases of infected people went up and up.

Crap.

The federal government, at the start of relief measures, gave the Ontario provincial government a lot of money to help with relief. And since June, Doug Ford has been sitting on $9.3B of that relief. All the while, letting restaurants and gyms stay open.

Fuck.

When the number infected rises and people are not following the recommendations of the health experts, Ford has simply said that he's disappointed, and that those people should stop this irresponsible behaviour.

Essentially, wagging his finger.

We took stronger measures eight months ago when the total number of cases for the country was lower than the daily cases for a single city. Meanwhile, I haven't been able to hug my mother. Only my immediate family and I had dinner together on Thanksgiving. I haven't been able to get together with friends. I've kept away from pubs and restaurants.

Because I want the pandemic to end.

We're not flattening the curve.

We need a mandatory lockdown of all non-essential services. The Ontario government needs to spend that relief money to help businesses forced to close their doors. We need to implement a curfew, where people need to stay home unless they need groceries.

Tough fines need to be issued to those who break curfew.

Let's do this for six weeks.

If we had these strict measures at the beginning, we would likely be in a much better situation than we are now. But the government has taken inaction, opting to rely on people's common sense for being out in public. The problem is, there's no such thing as common sense.

If there are no firm regulations, if there are only guidelines, people will try to get away with as much as they can.

I'm tired of this pandemic. I want it to end. But unless the provincial government cracks down, we can kiss Christmas and New Year's Eve goodbye.

You're supposed to be a leader, Doug Ford. Lead.

Your number-one priority is to work toward the end of COVID. Businesses and the economy come second. Because without the first priority, the rest just won't matter.

I've been a good boy.

Friday, November 13, 2020

Friday Fiction: Hanok Village, Revisited

The following is a draft excerpt from my novel, Gyeosunim. If you haven't read my previous novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, be warned that while there are no spoilers, you may be missing some context.

Sunday, May 12, 2019

It was exactly where I expected it to be.

Standing on Gyeonggijeon-gil, on the side of the road where the high school looked just as it had, more than twenty years earlier, I looked to the opposite side of the road, to where a dilapidated, traditional house once stood, to see a box-like building with modern signage. It was the old kalguk-su restaurant where I had my first meal in Korea, in March, 1997.

Walking through the sliding glass doors, I saw an open kitchen immediately to my right. To my left, four small tables lined the exterior wall. Two more tables were on the opposite wall, and an open doorway led to what looked like additional tables and possibly a washroom. Two young Korean women were standing by the kitchen, removing stainless steel bowls from a dishwasher and organizing cutlery. They were fully engaged in conversation and when they saw that I was a westerner, they almost seemed surprised.

Annyong-haseyo,” I greeted them.

One of the women turned to me. “Han saram?” she asked.

Nae,” I acknowledged that I was alone. She seated me in the back corner to this vacant area and I sat with my back to the wall, facing toward the kitchen and entrance. Once seated, I said, “Kalguk-su, hannah, chuseyo,” ordering my meal straight away.

She nodded and said, “Nae, chil cheon-obaek won, chuseyo.” She wanted me to pay up-front. This was new to me, as I had always paid the bill at the end of my meal, much as I have done around the world. I reached into my pocket and had the exact amount of seven-thousand, five-hundred won. “Nae, gomap-subnida,” she said and went off to the kitchen.

I was surprised to find the restaurant devoid of customers. In past visits, when the restaurant was a dilapidated house, every table was packed. You had to remove your shoes before entering and always had to wade through myriad pairs just to cross over the threshold. I didn’t have to remove my shoes this time and the tables were not low to the floor, as they used to be. Instead of sitting on a pillow, on the floor, I sat in a wooden chair. And the price of the kalguk-su, a spicy noodle soup, was now more than three times the cost from 1998. With all of these changes, I feared that the recipe would also be different.

I was not disappointed. The soup came with the spices piled in the centre of the bowl, and I used chopsticks to mix it in. My server also placed two other small dishes in front of me: one was an unidentified root vegetable in a red paste, like kimchi. The other dish held yellow medallions of pickled turnips. As soon as I had the first spoonful of kalguk-su in my mouth, the memories of my first visit, with Jason, a former teacher at my hagwon, came back. It was as though it had only been yesterday since my last visit to this restaurant.

As I finished my meal, more patrons entered the restaurant and I realized that I had simply beat the dinner crowd. By the time I was done, almost every table on this side of the restaurant was occupied and other customers were being ushered into the back room. As soon as I was done, I got up, thanked the server, who was near the kitchen, and made my way back onto the streets of the Hanok Village.

I felt as though I was in a theme park. Many of the buildings had been vastly renovated or rebuilt, and they were clean and uniform. The main streets had a relatively fresh layer of asphalt, with nary a crack or pothole to be found. Pedestrian crosswalks were tiled with different coloured bricks, and side streets were cobblestoned. It seemed artificial. Many of the shops catered to tourists, with plenty of hanbok rentals and photography studios, where you could wear traditional clothing or outfits that belonged in early twentieth-century America. Other stores offered Korean-styled fast food: spiced meat on sticks and cool treats. There were convenience stores and even a Poong-nyun Bakery, now abbreviated in English to PNB, in a traditional structure.

The people who wandered these streets were young, mostly in their twenties. I remembered these streets from 1997 and 1998, where the population of this neighbourhood seemed as ancient as the buildings. From my memory, I remembered walking along the main road of the Hanok Village and seeing many older adults, the ajumahs and ajuhshees—aunts and uncles—or older still, the hal-abeojis and halmeonis—grandpas and grandmas. They would be going about their business, shopping for groceries or simply strolling around the neighbourhood in which they grew up, having survived the Korean War or possibly, even, the last Japanese occupation. Now, it was kids, dressed in rented hanbok or wearing t-shirts with nonsensical expressions, in English, such as Something Lucky or That’s COOL—where the Os were replaced with red hearts—or How About You? They all looked like tourists or visitors from other parts of Chŏnju. Occasionally, I would see an older person, but they would walk past the bright new shops with solemn faces, as though they had lost something that had once been genuine.

On one side street, a moving brook meandered along a sidewalk, at one point running under the sidewalk, which was raised like a bridge, and ended at an ornate fountain. It seemed so contrived that the neighbourhood had lost its old-world charm.

I came to an intersection that felt familiar, even though it looked different, and I turned down a side street. A short distance later, I saw a wooden staircase that led up a forested hillside, and I knew exactly where I was. I climbed the stairs and followed a path that led me upwards, over the neighbourhood. A large, wooden balcony jutted out from the path and I could look northwestward, past Hanok Village, toward the city centre as the sun, semi-obstructed by a haze, fell toward the horizon, casting a warm peach glow. This view had changed very little over the past two decades. I could make out a tall black office tower and knew it was not far from the city hall building, though I couldn’t see that one. Looking westward, I could see the spire of Jeondong Cathedral and beyond that, parts of P’ungnammun, the thousand-year-old gate. Beyond the old city gate, beyond the five-hills park that was partially obscured by late-day haze, towers loomed large in the distance. It was a newer, modern Chŏnju, a part of the city I had yet to see. It appeared as a modern backdrop to an ancient city, straight out of a sci-fi film.

I climbed another set of stairs and reached the top of the hill, where Omok-dae Park also remained unchanged. The large pavilion, which offered visitors shelter from both sun and rain, had received a fresh coat of paint some years ago but had faded to a shade that I remembered from 1998. It was a daytime retreat for those who wanted to get away from the bustle of the city without leaving it entirely. I could see only a couple of people relaxing within the pavilion; earlier in the day, this spot would have been crowded but the sky had become overcast and rain threatened to soak the grassless, well-worn grounds that revealed a tan earth. I wandered the grounds, taking photographs with the digital camera that was slung over my shoulder.

At the opposite end of the park, the wooden path led downward. I could see the south end of the city and Namgosan, the small hill on which I had spent many hours, where a small temple and the remains of a fortress wall used to show a commanding view of Chŏnju. Only now, this hill was obscured by towering apartment complexes. I wanted to take some time, during this visit, to return to the temple on Namgosan, but I suspected that the view would be very different now.

Back in Hanok Village, I wandered the streets a bit longer, looking at the neon lights and listening to the K-pop tunes that played from hidden speakers. This once-quaint, thousand-year-old neighbourhood was now a theme park, for sure. All that was missing were the thrill rides and arcade games. There were more young people than the aged residents that I remembered wandering the streets. Where they would have stopped and gawked at a western foreigner like me, the teens and young adults didn’t even bat an eye. While I didn’t miss the attention that I used to draw by the Chŏnju citizens, it was somewhat disturbing to be treated as though I was invisible.

Now that the sun had finally lowered itself behind distant hills and towering buildings, street lamps came on and the Hanok Village began to embrace the coming night. I wandered some of the streets that were away from the crowds of the main roads, and I eventually made my way back to my HanokStay room. My host, Choon-ju, was nowhere to be found but I could hear faint classical music playing from a radio deep within her living space, and a warm light came through a small, frosted-glass window. The fountains in the garden were still moving water in a soft babble and some of the ornamental lamps glowed faintly. Getting to my room, I realized that I had forgotten to put the chain and lock through the door, but there was nothing to fear: everything was where I had left it. I wondered if I should lock myself in for the night but decided that that, too, was unnecessary.

I made a video call to Fiona and to Siobhan, to let them know where I was and that I was safe, but that the jet lag, mixed with the travel from Seoul to Chŏnju was catching up to me and I bade them a goodnight before getting ready for bed.

I had yet to decide whether to contact Su-ah tomorrow or to wait a bit. I wanted to re-familiarize myself with Chŏnju, wanted to visit my old university, curious to see if any teachers remained. Brian and John had taught at Jeonju Dae for many years before I had come along and seemed determined to make South Korea their home. Would they still be teaching? Would Chul-won be running the department?

What about other people who had lived in Chŏnju? Where were my private students? Where was Mr. Lee? Were they still living in this city or had they moved on?

Thinking about these people from the past, I faded into a deep sleep.

Thursday, November 12, 2020

Bird Shots

I don't typically have the patience to sit in the woods or along a body of water to photograph wildlife. When I go outdoors to capture images, I prefer to keep moving, keep my eyes open, and stop only if something catches my eye.

As soon as I've taken a few pictures, I like to keep moving, looking for more subjects to photograph.

This summer, DW and I set up a bird feeder under our choke-cherry tree, and have taken pleasure as we've viewed myriad finches, cardinals, woodpeckers, and more feathered friends. DW, having renewed her interest in photography with her mirrorless Canon, likes to sit in our backyard and digitally capture these birds. I would often join her, with one of my Nikon D-SLRs and my 70-300mm lens, and do the same, though after a time I lose patience and set my camera down.

Other times, I've attached one of my 360-degree video cameras to the same branch and record the birds as they've come and gone, but lately I've lost interest in setting up the camera, only to cut scores of video that shows little or no action.

Last weekend, the two of us decided to wander around Mud Lake, along the Ottawa River, near Britannia Village, and we both brought our cameras and some bird seed. Having hiked this conservation area a few weeks earlier, on the Thanksgiving weekend, we saw how the birds like to come close, hoping for a treat. DW, who saw nuthatches on our previous walk but didn't have her camera, was hoping to capture one this time.

She needn't have worried: nuthatches are in abundance in this part of the city, as common as the chickadees that landed on us, whether we had seeds in our hands or not.

Because we wanted to keep a safe distance from the many other visitors who had the same idea of wandering Mud Lake, we opted to stray off the path, set seeds on fallen logs or tree stumps, sit back with our cameras at the ready, and see what happens.

We weren't disappointed.

We also saw lots of ducks, geese, and other fowl, including this wood duck.


The only birds that eluded our lenses were a female cardinal and a downy woodpecker, who flittered in the bushes or climbed out of sight, high atop the trees. But that's okay: we know they like our backyard feeder.

Happy Thursday!



Monday, November 9, 2020

Cranes Are Magical

Cranes are magical.

One day they're up: another day, gone.

In all of my 55 years, I have seen neither the assembly nor the dismantling of these huge towers. They just suddenly, mysteriously, appear or disappear.

I've never seen an operator ascend or descend from one. I've only seen these machines in motion or as still as a grave.

I could never climb one for my fear of heights. Instead, I just stand far below and marvel them from a distance.

Cranes, indeed, are magical.

Friday, November 6, 2020

Friday Fiction: A Family Portrait

The following is a draft excerpt from my novel, Gyeosunim. If you haven't read my previous novel, Songsaengnim: A Korea Diary, be warned that there are spoilers in this post.

Note: in some of the dialog between the main character, Roland Axam, and his sister, Siobhan, I've begun introducing some Scots Gaelic. It's not complete. If you think it's too much, or if the language has been used incorrectly, I'd appreciate some feedback, which you can leave in today's Comment section.


Tuesday, February 3, 1998

No one was happier this week than my mum. She was back in Scotland with her two kids. She didn’t expect for me to be here—I even told her, after the crisis with Kwon but before Tanya left, that I wouldn’t be returning to either Canada or to Scotland for the holidays. I was expecting to surprise her in Ottawa, where I had gone directly from Seoul. Because I knew she had already spent the Christmas holidays with Siobhan and Brian, in Edinburgh, I expected her to be in her Sandy Hill home. Little did I realize the damage inflicted by the ice storm that struck Eastern Ontario and extended all the way to Montreal. After a few days without power, Mum had decided to seek refuge in Edinburgh. Keys to the neighbour, who promised to check on her home when the power was restored, to make sure that everything that was supposed to be off was, indeed, off.

Though the storm had blown over before I touched down at the Macdonald-Cartier International Airport, evidence of its presence was apparent in the aftermath of broken trees throughout the city. The red maple on my front lawn was missing some of its larger, older branches, luckily missing my house. My mother’s tree, having been planted much longer and had grown to a ripe-old age, hadn’t fared as well. Most of the main structure had given way under the thick coating of ice and had fallen onto the street, taking three cars with it. When I arrived at the Blackburn Avenue home to surprise my mother, city crews were carving up the remainder of the old tree. It was then that I learned that Mum was not at home, but in Edinburgh.

I spent a couple of days in Ryan Farm, my Nepean neighbourhood, filing taxes, purchasing supplies for my second year in Korea, and contacting the few friends I had left behind, nearly a year before. Many of them had been neglected after the funeral and I was hoping to touch base before I was written off altogether. I purchased a round-trip ticket to Edinburgh, fully intending to return to Ottawa to collect my supplies, which would not be coming with me to Scotland, before continuing on the second leg of the round-trip ticket I had bought in Seoul.

The surprise I gave to my family was completely unexpected. I hadn’t even told Brian (there was no telling Siobhan, who couldn’t keep a secret to save her life). I had arrived at the Edinburgh International Airport at lunchtime, and was tempted to head straight to Siobhan’s house, but knew that both she and Brian would be at work. Instead, I took the shuttle bus to Waverley Station and caught the first train to North Berwick. I needed to drop off my bags and freshen up, anyway.

Though it was about 2:00 and the weather seemed unsettled, I decided that I wanted to climb Berwick Law. For me, it was a morning ritual when I lived here and on subsequent visits, and I didn’t want another day to pass without getting the best view of my town and its surroundings. But it wasn’t long after my chilling climb to the summit that I saw a coming storm, blowing in from the east, and I made my way back into town. There was no telling whether the precipitation was coming in the form of a soaking rain or pelting ice, and either way was unappealing.

I managed to beat the storm and make my way to the Auld Hoose, and as I sat and nursed my whisky and beer, I pictured how I would surprise my family when I showed up on the doorsteps. I quickly finished the last of my drinks, thanked Katie, and headed to my house, which was on the way to the train station. Because the weather was turning worse, I fetched a better coat and a hat to protect myself from the elements.


It’s only a ten-minute walk from Waverley Station to Northumberland Street, on the north side of Queen Street Gardens, to New Town. Rain was coming down heavily and ran in a steady stream down the front of my expedition hat every time I looked down to the street, to avoid stepping in a puddle. My jacket was soaked but not yet through. When I knocked on the black-painted door, Siobhan answered and took a few seconds to register that it was me standing in front of her.

“Can I come in?” I asked. “It’s cold, dark, and I’m absolutely drookit.”

Siobhan shrieked, sounding more like she was being robbed at gunpoint than she was being greeted by her older brother. Brian came quickly to the door, ready to defend his girlfriend, followed by Mum. It took even longer for her to recognize the man that Siobhan was embracing. She could only see part of my face and my arms, wrapped around Siobhan. When she recognized me, her hands went trembling to her mouth and the tears flowed freely. And then she lost her balance. I panicked, fearing she would hit the hardwood floor, but Brian had lightning reflexes, put his powerful arm around Mum’s shoulder and helped steady her, helped guide her to her son, where I received another warm embrace.

We retired to the kitchen for tea, to help steady Mum’s nerves. She was speechless, could only look at me, stroke my cheek, and whisper “Ma Roland,” over and over again.

I was home.

***

Tanya was gone. It was over. There was no chance of our ever getting back together. After she left our bed on that fateful day, when she learned that I could never produce a child with her, I never saw her again.

When I returned to Ottawa, after the ice storm had left its mark across Eastern Ontario and South-western Quebec, I tried to find Tanya through her sister, Nancy. Nancy lived in Montreal: I had her phone number from one of the many long-distance phone bills that Tanya had racked up while we were living together. Tanya would call her several times each week. I didn't care about the expenses—whatever made Tanya happy.

“Tanya’s left Korea,” Nancy told me. She wouldn’t provide Tanya’s current location. Only that she was travelling throughout South-East Asia. Possibly Thailand, I surmised: we had often talked about going there together. Was Tanya alone?

Surely, she was. It was far too soon for her to be with another man. But perhaps with one of her friends.

“Tanya isn’t taking the job at the university,” Nancy offered, knowing it was on my mind. Chŏnbuk National University: she had been offered a job teaching in its International Languages department. One of her private adult students was married to the director of the department. When Tanya’s and my job at the hagwon—independent language institute—crumbled under the strain of the financial crisis, her after-hours student stepped up. Just as one of my hagwon students stepped up to help me find a teaching position at Jeonju University—Chŏnju’s equivalent of a community college.

I thanked Nancy for the information and asked her to pass my love on to Tanya. I wanted Nancy, as well as Tanya, to know that I still loved her. That I always would.

“Tis ower,” I said to Siobhan, stressing the Scots word for “over” so that it sounded final. It was the first time I had said it out loud, and in the dialect that my sister and I reserved for when we conversed together, in our meagre attempt to keep our native tongue alive. It hurt to say the words aloud, but after nearly a week after my call to Nancy, I accepted the fact that unless Tanya had plans to return to Chŏnju, I would never see her again. “Once again, it’s time for me to accept a loss and move forward.”

“There are plenty more wummin out there, mah bràthair,” said Siobhan. “Think of Tanya as an amuse bouche in the buffet of women. You’ll find someone who you can really sink your teeth into.”

“Ye hae tae wirk on yer metaphors, sis’,” I said. “Tanya wisnae meal. Though, a tasty morsel she was.” I swirled the nearly empty tumbler of 25-year-old Lagavulin, realizing I had had more than my fair share of Brian’s bottle. Not that the successful architect couldn’t afford it. Not that any of us couldn’t afford it. The Axam family’s loss had brought significant financial gain, through inheritances, insurance, and divestiture of investments.

“What say you bide in North Berwick? I hae a friend, Fiona. I think the two of ye would hit it off.”

I remembered meeting Fiona at a party when Siobhan was attending the University of Edinburgh, in 1988. Fiona had hit on me that evening, even though she knew I was with Kristen, who was in Canada at the time. I was visiting Siobhan on a business stopover: I was actually heading to Berlin but had been instructed to fly from London, rather than directly, with a few days in the UK. I decided to take a couple of days in Edinburgh during this furlough. I had told my department head, Charles Townsend, about my North Berwick home and how it would be great to check in on it before flying from Heathrow to Tegel. Siobhan’s party was my last evening in Edinburgh before the start of that fateful mission.

“She seemed a little wild to me, last time I saw her,” I told my sister, remembering that party, the way Fiona would sit next to me on one of the sofas, leaning into me, putting her hand on my arm or on my leg; how she cornered me in the hallway, as I came out of the washroom, pretending she wanted to dance with me but only rubbed her body up and down me, in time with the music. She was obviously drunk, so I wouldn’t have put any moves on her even if I was single. “I hope she’s settled down.”

“Not much,” Siobhan admitted.

Even though I was newly married at the time, I found Fiona to be a sexy firecracker, but I was completely in love with my wife. In another life, perhaps something would have happened. In another life. And now, I was living another life, except this time, it wasn’t a partner that would keep my interest in Fiona at bay: it was the distance. “It doesn’t matter. I’m going back. I made a commitment to the university. I cannae let Mrs. Kim down—she went out on a limb to get me that job.” Mrs. Kim: my student from the hagwon. Lots of my students had my back, but few looked out for me as she had. Or as Mr. Lee had. “And besides, I’m not ready to come back. I might have made strides in ma first year, but I’m without all of ma friends. I need tae ken that I can stand on my own feet.”

“What’s that supposed to mean?”

“I dinnae ken,” I confessed. “But what I do ken is that I feel not only obliged tae return to Korea, but that I really want tae go. I need to prove once again that I can move on.”

“I think you should meet Fiona again. She still talks about you, is always asking me how you are doing in Korea. I think she was a bit disappointed when she found out that you and Tanya were together. Ooh, I bet she’ll want tae see ye when she finds out that you’re single again and are here. Yes, I’m going tae speir her o’er for dinner.”

“Siobhan, I’m going back tae Chŏnju. It’s settled.”

“I’m sure that Fiona could persuade you tae bide.” Siobhan moved over to the phone that was on a small table at the end of the sofa.”

“Shiv!”

“He’s not ready, love,” said Brian, his voice soft and caressing, knowing how to appeal to my sister without sounding like a reprimand. Though he was a tall and muscular man, almost resembling my dad in stature, Brian was always soft-spoken. Always the voice of reason. It was that soft yet assertive Welsh accent. Rising from his seat on the sofa, next to Siobhan, he leaned forward and poured me another measure of whisky. “Let him follow his own path.”

“Well said,” I responded, raising my newly filled glass.

Siobhan grunted, not used to not getting her way, removed her hand from the phone handset and pouted at her boyfriend. I’m sure there would be words to Brian, after I was gone. Would his soothing Welsh tone remain?

Not my problem. This year, I had to think of myself. I needed to be a little selfish. Last year, at the hagwon, I had become too involved with my students and fellow teachers. Too involved with Tanya. I hadn’t gone to Korea to find love; I had gone to forget a love that was violently snatched from me. Not to forget Kristen, nor Laura Elizabeth, nor Dad. I had gone to forget the pain associated with the loss of them. They were gone, all died in that car crash on that fateful day in July, more than two-and-a-half years ago. Staying in Ottawa, the memory of them, the pain of their passing, was too close for me and too much to handle. Staying in Ottawa, the only way that I could suppress the sorrow was found at the bottom of a bottle. Of several bottles.

It had been Siobhan, with the help of our mother, who had shaken me from my sorry state of self-pity. She ventured from her busy career—she, the administrative assistant to Edinburgh’s Lord Provost—to Ottawa, to sober me up and get me to move forward. Siobhan was the one who suggested that I teach abroad, to go to Japan. It was I who had settled on South Korea after talking to a friend’s sister, who had, herself, taught in that country for a year.

But I had chosen a bad year to go to Korea, though I didn’t know it at the time. Economic corruption had fuelled the financial crisis that was spreading across South-East Asia. Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore, along with South Korea, were the worst-affected countries. Ironically, the offer made by the International Monetary Fund to help South Korea out of its slump made matters worse: over fears that tough restrictions would be placed over the money that the IMF was willing to offer, the Korean Stock Exchange dropped lower and lower. The won, Korea's currency, plummeted.

My employer took a financial bath. Because he was paying his teachers based on the American dollar, he found himself paying us more and more won, to the point where he was paying nearly twice the amount of won as he had been when I first started working for him. And his second business, a trading company, was not doing so well, either. Business was dropping off. Contracts were not being won. And the hagwon was sucking him dry as student enrolment was dwindling.

I said the hagwon director took a bath, and that was true, at first. But his solution to his financial crisis was to not pay the teachers. At the end of December, on payday, after his three teachers had worked a full month for him, Kwon Tae-ha informed us that he couldn’t pay us and that he was closing the language institute. He instructed us to leave the country. I had managed to get some money from him and was able to ensure that one of the teachers received a paycheque, but Tanya and I hadn’t fared as well. Kwon owed Tanya for the month of December and owed me that month in wages as well as a stipend. I never saw a cent.

But I also didn’t leave the country. Not permanently.

I had no plan on how to deal with Kwon. Once I had my new work visa in hand, I would have stable legs upon which I could stand. But I’d have no power. The labour board had already told me that they couldn’t intervene. Because the three teachers and only one secretary were on Kwon’s books for the hagwon, the company was considered too small for them to pursue: five employees was the minimum number. And so Tanya and I were cut loose.

Not that I needed the money. I hadn’t gone to Korea to earn a living. I was already considered a millionaire. But that financial gain had come at too great a loss for me. I would gladly give back every penny if, in doing so, I could turn back the clock to July 2, 1995. I would tell Dad and Kristen to hold off on their trip to Westport. Tell them of the coming storm.

Tanya also wasn’t hurting for cash, and not just because she had been living with me. She had taught enough students privately to keep herself financially afloat. Her income from these students had more than equaled her pay in less than half the time it would have taken to earn it from Kwon. As much as she deserved her pay, she hadn’t suffered from the lack of it.

When I returned to Chŏnju and got settled, I would set my sights on Kwon.

“So, what is your plan?” Brian asked me. I liked Brian. He was a good man, was good for Siobhan. She was always career-focused, always serious. Only at home, after a couple of drinks, she would relax and let her guard down. Brian helped to keep her relaxed at home. Would always remind her that there was more to life than a job. Life had to be enjoyed. Not that he wasn’t a dedicated, hard-working man. His job at an affluent architecture firm was taken seriously. He was on a team that was working on designs for the proposed Scottish parliament buildings, should they ever come to be. Brian's firm was among the top contenders, and Brian was putting in many hours of overtime on the project. But when he was at home, he was at home: a clear division from the office was drawn.

“I’m excited about teaching at the university,” I said. “I’m going to give it my best effort, use all the skills that I learned at the hagwon to the fullest. And I’m going to continue teaching my private students, if they still want me.” I had three students that I taught after hours, but hadn’t seen them since the end of December, when everything was turned on its head. I spent most of January figuring out the year ahead, and dealing with Tanya walking out on me because she wanted to have a child with me. A child I couldn’t give her because Kristen and I had made the decision to stop at one child. My vasectomy was permanent.

“What about friends?” asked Siobhan. She knew that my two closest friends, Brad and Wilma, had left Korea when their hagwon had closed—another victim of the economic downturn. Wilma had been laid off more than a month before Brad was let go. Brad followed Wilma to her home country, Australia. I had vowed to myself to make some time in the year to visit them. I missed them; even more so with Tanya out of the picture. It was hard to imagine the year ahead of me without any of them.

“Friends will be secondary,” I said. “This year, I’m keeping to myself. I know the city like the back of my hand. I can speak the language enough to get by: take a taxi anywhere; order food in a restaurant; ask for simple directions; explain that I am not an American—meegook sarahm, ani-nibda!” I emphasized the statement with a negative wave of the hand.

I took a slow, long sip of the Lagavulin before I continued. “I hope to improve my comprehension. Maybe, I’ll take a language class. I think my university offers a class to the teachers.” In fact, the university administrators wanted me to enroll in a Masters program: Korean studies seemed like the only choice, but in all honesty I don’t want to take the program. According to Jody and Jamie, two of my few remaining friends left in Chŏnju, no Korean Masters degree would be recognized in North America. I’d have no accreditation for it when I returned to Canada. So any courses that I would take would have to serve me there.

“Isn’t that what you said before you left a year ago? That you would keep to yourself?” teased Siobhan. “I ken ye, big bràthair.”

“Only brother,” I corrected her, in English. Along with our mother, Grandpa MacInnis, and now, Brian, we were the only family she had left.

“You wanted to focus on the culture, learn about Korea. Not make any friends. What happened there?”

She had a point. My closest friends had been Brad, Tanya, and Wilma; later, Jamie and Jody. There were the regular ex-patriots—ex-pats—at the local bar, Urban. There were precious few Korean friends. Hoon, the owner of Urban Bar, who I never saw outside business hours. Mr. Lee, my hagwon student, who would often take Tanya and me out on day trips to nearby temples and fortresses, and who would often treat us to dinner. One night, he joined us, with Brad and Wilma, at Urban Bar, and he picked up the entire tab. He also helped Tanya and me move out of the hagwon apartment when everything fell apart. He was a valued student and a good friend.

But the Koreans that I considered to be friends weren’t the same as my Western friends. They weren’t as close to me. And sometimes, I felt as though our friendship was based on a service: I taught them English and in return they paid my way when we socialized. Right or wrong, it just seemed to be the way things worked.

“Face it, Roland: you’re a social creature. You need to be around people. You’ve always been that way. When we first moved to Canada, you had no trouble making friends at school. You and Stuart are a’ charaid as fheàrr. You’ll be that way again when you return to your wee Korean town.”

“We’ll see,” I said, noticing my empty tumbler and rocking it from side to side, in front of Brian, who took his cue and reached for the nearly empty bottle. “We’ll see.”